For centuries the chestnut was the staple food of Ticino's mountain valleys, eaten fresh, dried or ground into flour when grain was scarce. That history is still visible in the old chestnut groves above Lugano and in the autumn festivals — the castagnate — that villages and towns hold every October. A visit to Lugano between late September and early November is the easiest way to see both.
Why chestnuts matter in Ticino
Ticino's chestnut groves (selve castanili) were planted and tended for food, not for timber. Families relied on them through the winter, drying the nuts in small stone drying huts (metati or grà) over a slow fire and then storing or grinding them. As the economy changed in the 20th century many groves were abandoned, but restoration projects across the canton have brought some of them back into use, and the chestnut has become a symbol of local identity. You will see it in bakeries, on restaurant menus and at festival stalls throughout the autumn.
The castagnate: autumn chestnut festivals
A castagnata is simply a chestnut roast, and in October many villages, parishes and associations organise one: a brazier, large perforated pans of chestnuts roasting over the fire, and paper cones of hot caldarroste for a few francs. Larger events add markets, music and food stalls. Because many of them are run by local volunteers, the programme changes from year to year, so check the events calendar on ticino.ch or the Lugano Region tourism site shortly before your visit.
A few regular fixtures to look out for:
- Festa d'Autunno, Lugano — Lugano's autumn festival takes over the city centre for a weekend in early October, with food stands, regional produce and music (in 2026 it ran from 2 to 4 October). Roasted chestnuts are part of the offering alongside other seasonal food.
- Ascona — the lakeside town near Locarno holds an autumn festival and a traditional chestnut festival (Festa delle Castagne) on the lakefront in October, a short train and bus ride from Lugano.
- Valle di Muggio — the valley south of Lugano holds a chestnut festival in mid-October, moving between villages from year to year.
Dates for 2027 are typically published in late summer.
Walking the Sentiero del Castagno
The best way to understand the chestnut landscape is to walk through it. The Sentiero del Castagno (Chestnut Trail) in the Alto Malcantone, west of Lugano, is a circular route through restored chestnut groves, with information panels on cultivation, drying and the uses of the tree. The loop is usually described as about 11 to 15 kilometres depending on the variant, taking four to six hours; shorter sections are possible if you want an easy half day.
The trail is usually started in Arosio, reached by regional bus from Lamone-Cadempino station (a short train ride from Lugano). It passes through hamlets including Vezio and Fescoggia, and in autumn the ground is covered in chestnut husks — wear sturdy shoes, as the spiny burrs are uncomfortable through thin soles. Collecting a few chestnuts for your own use is generally tolerated on public paths, but many groves are private or managed by local patriziati, so do not gather in bulk.
What to eat
Chestnuts appear in sweet and savoury form across Ticino in autumn:
- Caldarroste — roasted chestnuts sold hot in paper cones at festivals and street stalls.
- Vermicelles — sweetened chestnut purée piped into thin strands, often served with whipped cream or meringue; a classic Swiss autumn dessert.
- Chestnut bread and cakes made with chestnut flour.
- Chestnut soup, and chestnuts served alongside game dishes, which also come into season in autumn.
- Chestnut jams, honey and beer sold at markets as take-home products.
Many grottos — Ticino's rustic outdoor restaurants — put chestnut dishes on the menu in autumn; menus change, so ask what is seasonal.
Planning an autumn trip to Lugano
Timing. Chestnuts ripen from late September; most festivals fall in October. Combined with the autumn colour in the hills, the first three weeks of October are generally the best window.
Getting around. Lugano is on the main north–south rail line. Regional buses (PostBus and local operators) reach Malcantone villages from Lugano and nearby stations. Visitors staying overnight in the Lugano region usually receive a guest card that includes free local public transport within the region — confirm the details with your accommodation.
Weather. Ticino is noticeably milder than northern Switzerland, but October can bring heavy rain. Bring a waterproof layer for the trails.
Combine it. A morning on the Sentiero del Castagno, an afternoon in Lugano's old town and lakefront, and an evening at a castagnata make a good autumn day. Monte Brè and Monte San Salvatore, both reached by funicular from Lugano, offer views over the lake and the wooded hills where the chestnut groves are.
