Bern's Summer Ritual
On a hot summer day in Bern, thousands of people walk upstream along the Aare in their swimwear, jump in and let the river carry them back towards the city. The Aare flows fast and green around the Old Town, and floating down it is one of the most distinctive things to do in the Swiss capital. It is also a real river with a strong current, so it pays to understand how it works before getting in.
Marzili: the Base Camp
The Marzilibad is an open-air bath on the riverbank below the Federal Palace, and it is where most river swimmers start and finish. Entry is free. It has a 50 m pool, diving boards, smaller pools and a children's pool, plus large lawns and a separate women's area. Swimming has been recorded at this spot since the 17th century, and today it is one of the most visited pools in Switzerland, with several hundred thousand visits each summer. Parts of the bath are being renovated in phases, with work planned to finish by the 2029 season, so some areas may be closed while you are there.
Where to Get In
The usual routine is to walk upstream from the Marzili along the river path and get in at one of the established entry points:
- Schönausteg: about 1 km upstream, the shortest float and a good first try
- Eichholz: about 2 km upstream, with a campsite and grassy riverbank
- Fähribeiz: about 3.5 km upstream, for a longer float
The current can reach around 10 km/h, so even the longest float is over quickly. Plan your exit before you get in.
Getting Out Safely
At the Marzili, ladders and handrails along the bank let swimmers climb out. Start moving towards the bank in good time: with a strong current you can overshoot an exit faster than you expect. Do not continue beyond the Marzili. Further downstream the river runs past the Old Town towards the weir in the Matte district, where swimming is dangerous.
Other safety points:
- Only swim if you are a confident swimmer, and never swim alone.
- Check the water level and temperature on the day. After heavy rain or snowmelt the river rises, flows faster and carries debris.
- The water is cold even in high summer because it comes down from the Bernese Oberland. Cooling down too quickly is a real risk, so get in slowly.
- Keep away from bridge pillars and anything in the water that could catch you.
- Do not jump from bridges. It is dangerous and often prohibited.
- Children should only swim in the river with close adult supervision, and the pools are the better choice for young or weaker swimmers.
What to Bring
Locals carry their clothes and phone downstream in a waterproof roll-top bag known as a Wickelfisch, a fish-shaped dry bag that also floats. They are sold in Bern shops. Alternatively, leave your things at the Marzili and walk upstream with only your swimwear. Water shoes help on the stony riverbank.
Other Places to Swim in Bern
- Lorrainebad: a river bath on the Aare north of the Old Town with a more relaxed atmosphere.
- Weyermannshaus: a large open-air pool west of the centre, one of the biggest in Switzerland.
- Eichholz: the riverbank here is popular for picnics and paddling as well as for starting a float.
Bern's municipal open-air pools have traditionally been free to enter, and the summer season generally runs from May to September. Opening dates depend on the weather, so check the city's website for the current season.
When to Go
July and August usually have the warmest water and the busiest riverbanks. On weekday lunchtimes many Bernese head to the Marzili for a quick swim, while weekend afternoons are the most crowded. Early evening is quieter and still warm on summer days.
If you are new to river swimming, watch the locals for a while from the Marzili bank before trying it. You will see where people get in, how they steer towards the bank, and which ladders they use to climb out. Starting with the short float from Schönausteg on a warm, calm day is the easiest introduction. Once you know the exits, the longer floats from Eichholz or Fähribeiz are simply more of the same, with more time to look up at the Federal Palace and the city on the slope above.
