Fiesch

Fiesch lies in the Goms district, the highest part of the Rhône valley, where the river is still a modest stream that runs between meadows. The valley is long and wide, with villages of dark timber houses set on stone bases, small chapels and farms. Fiesch is among the larger of these, though it remains small, and its role as a base for the mountain region above it sets it apart. The Wysswasser, a stream that drains the Fiescher glacier, flows past the village and joins the Rhône here.

The cable car from Fiesch rises to Fiescheralp, an alpine terrace at around 2,200 metres that belongs to the municipality. There are small hotels and restaurants, a chapel and a network of paths and ski runs. The terrace faces south toward the Valais Alps, and on a clear day the views over the Rhône valley reach across the mountains opposite. It is a natural place to stay a night if you want sunrise and sunset from the heights.

From Fiescheralp, a second cable car goes up to the top station near the Eggishorn at 2,869 metres. The Eggishorn is a rocky summit with a mountain restaurant beside the station and a short path to the viewpoint. From here the Aletsch Glacier appears as a huge river of ice curving away to the south-west, flanked by peaks of the Bernese and Valais Alps. The glacier is more than twenty kilometres long and is the largest in the Alps, though like all Alpine glaciers it has been shrinking for decades, and the difference from a hundred years ago is plain on the rock walls. The view is within the Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch UNESCO World Heritage Site. Weather can change fast, so check the cable car status before going up and carry warm clothing even in summer.

A well-known walk from the Eggishorn leads to the Märjelen lake, called the Märjelensee, at about 2,300 metres. It is a small glacial lake on the edge of the Aletsch Glacier. The shoreline has been changing as the glacier retreats, and small ice floes drift on the surface in some seasons. The path is a high mountain trail that is generally easy to follow but is strictly for sure-footed walkers in good weather. Allow several hours for the full route, including time at the lake, and check the state of the path and the snow before you set out in early summer.

For those who prefer lower altitudes, the Goms offers an exceptionally flat valley with a long cross-country skiing and cycling route that follows the Rhône along the valley floor. In summer the same route is used by cyclists and walkers, with the railway running alongside. Other villages in the valley, such as Ernen with its painted houses and music festival, and Binn with its mineral-rich side valley, are within easy reach and make good additions to a stay.

Winter in Fiesch is about the high terrace. Skiing around Fiescheralp, Bettmeralp and Riederalp is part of the Aletsch Arena, a ski area with open runs, and the area is known for long, sunny days on the snow. Snowshoe trails and winter walking paths are marked, and cross-country trails follow the valley floor in the village. The season runs roughly from December to April, and the terrace can be busy during school holidays.

The best months for hiking are late June to early October, when the cable cars run fully and the high paths are clear. July and August are the busiest, while September often brings the clearest views and the first colour on the larches. Snow can linger on high paths into July.

Getting to Fiesch is easy by train. The village has a station on the line of the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn, with services along the Goms valley between Brig and Andermatt and beyond, and the Glacier Express also calls here. The road along the valley connects Brig, with the Furka pass in summer. The cable car station is a short walk from the railway station. Accommodation ranges from simple guesthouses and apartments to a few larger hotels, and booking ahead is wise for July, August and the winter holidays.