Schaukäserei

The Appenzeller Schaukäserei is a show dairy in the village of Stein, in the canton of Appenzell Ausserrhoden, a few kilometres from the village of Appenzell, and it is the best place to see how one of Switzerland's most distinctive cheeses is made. The cheese itself, Appenzeller, is a hard cheese made from cows' milk that has been produced in the region for centuries, with written references that go back to the Middle Ages. It is famous for its strong, spicy flavour and its pungent smell, and both come from the way the wheels are cared for during ageing. Every few days, a cheesemaker rubs them with a brine mixed with herbs and spices, and the recipe for this herbal mixture is a closely guarded secret known only to a few people.

The dairy is set up so that visitors can watch the work as it happens. A gallery above the production floor lets you look down on the large copper vats where fresh milk is warmed, curdled and cut, and you can see the cheesemakers stirring, lifting the curd in cloths and pressing it into moulds. Screens and information panels explain each step in several languages, and the timing of the show is arranged so that visitors can see the key moments of production at certain hours of the day. The whole process, from the arrival of milk to the formation of the wheels, takes only a few hours, but the ageing that follows lasts for months. Through windows into the maturing cellar, you see shelves holding thousands of wheels, and a machine and the staff turning and brushing them with brine, one of the more striking sights of the visit.

The second part of the visit is about taste. The cheese is sold at three or more stages of maturity, and the flavour changes as it ages: a young wheel is milder, with a creamy, slightly fruity taste, while an older one becomes firmer, more intense and more piquant. A tasting box lets visitors compare these styles, and the shop offers a range of cheeses, along with other regional products such as sausages, honey and cheese-based snacks. A restaurant serves dishes made with the cheese, such as cheese macaroni, cheese on toast and fondue, so lunch can be part of the visit.

An exhibition explains the history of the cheese and the herbal ingredients in the brine, the role of dairy farming in Appenzell and the work of the farmers who supply the milk. Interactive displays allow children to try milking a model cow, smell herbs and guess ingredients, which makes the visit lively for families. The dairy is accessible for wheelchairs and pushchairs, and the layout makes it easy to move between levels. The dairy is open most of the year, with longer hours in the warm season and shorter ones in winter, and admission is charged at a modest rate.

The village of Stein is reached by the railway from Appenzell and Gossau, and by bus, with a short walk to the dairy. The visit suits families, food lovers and anyone interested in traditional crafts. Allow one to two hours. Combine it with a walk in the surrounding hills, a visit to the village of Appenzell with its painted houses, and a taste of the local beer.