Aescher Cliff Restaurant

The Berggasthaus Aescher is one of the most photographed mountain inns in Switzerland, a small guesthouse that seems to cling to a cliff in the Alpstein, in the canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden. It lies on the eastern side of the Ebenalp, below the summit, and the building is tucked under an overhanging wall of limestone, so that the rock forms its back wall and part of its roof. The setting is dramatic: below, the cliff drops hundreds of metres into the valley, and in front there is a wide view over wooded slopes and the hills of the Appenzell region. The guesthouse was built in the nineteenth century and has been in use for hospitality ever since, serving walkers and pilgrims.

The history of the place is linked with the nearby Wildkirchli, a cave used from early times as a hermitage and chapel. Hermits lived in the caves from the seventeenth century, and a small chapel and dwelling were built in the rock, drawing pilgrims and, later, walkers. The Aescher, close to the same route, grew out of that tradition as a place where visitors could eat, drink and rest. The Wildkirchli caves are also known to archaeologists for finds of cave bear bones and traces of prehistoric people, which made them an important site in the study of the Ice Age in the Alps.

Getting there is part of the experience. From the cable car station at the top of the Ebenalp, a path leads along the cliff and through a rock tunnel and past the Wildkirchli, descending a few hundred metres by steps and a narrow ledge cut into the rock, with railings and safety measures. The route is short, around fifteen to twenty minutes each way, but includes steps and uneven terrain, so sturdy shoes are needed and the way is not suited to people with mobility problems or a strong fear of heights. The path is exposed in places, and ice can form in cold weather, so it may be closed outside the season.

The guesthouse serves simple, hearty food typical of the region. Appenzeller cheese, sausages, rösti and other traditional dishes are common, and drinks include local beer and coffee. Eating on the small terrace with the cliff behind and the valley in front is the main attraction, and the quality of the view is more important than any menu. It is open seasonally, normally in the warmer months, and opening hours depend on weather, so check the information before you go, particularly if you plan to eat there. In busy periods it can be crowded, and arriving early or on a weekday helps.

The Aescher suits walkers, photographers and anyone who enjoys unusual buildings. It is a destination for a short excursion from the Ebenalp, and it can be combined with a hike to the Seealpsee or along the ridge. Bring warm clothing, a camera and cash, and allow one to two hours for the walk and a stop.