Lake Seealpsee

The Seealpsee is a small lake in the Alpstein range, in the canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden, at about 1,140 metres, and it is one of the most visited mountain lakes in eastern Switzerland. It lies in a deep hollow beneath the northern face of the Säntis massif, with steep cliffs and green slopes rising on all sides, and the setting is the reason for its popularity: the water is clear and cold, the walls around it are sheer, and the reflection of the peaks in the still surface is a favourite subject for photographers. There is no road to the lake, so it can be reached only on foot, though a small cable car for goods and luggage runs for the inn on its shore.

The usual route starts at Wasserauen, a village at the end of the narrow-gauge railway from Appenzell, and it follows a wide, well-made path along a stream through a narrow valley, climbing gently through forest and meadow. The walk takes about an hour to an hour and a half, depending on pace, and it is suitable for most walkers, including families with children, though it has some steep sections and the path can be crowded on summer weekends. Another way to reach the lake is from the Ebenalp, by a descent of about an hour through woods and over rocky ground, which is steeper and better suited to experienced walkers. Both routes pass through landscapes of limestone and pasture that characterise the Alpstein, a compact mountain range of sharp ridges and deep valleys.

At the shore, a mountain inn serves meals and drinks, specialising in trout from the lake and other regional dishes. In summer many visitors bring a picnic and spend the afternoon on the grassy banks, or take a swim in the cold water, which is refreshing rather than warm. The lake is fed by streams and springs and is relatively shallow, but its depth is enough to give it a deep blue-green colour. Fishing is regulated, and the surrounding area is protected, so visitors should follow signs and avoid leaving rubbish. In winter, the lake often freezes, and the path may be closed or hazardous due to snow and avalanches, so check conditions before you set out.

Many longer walks begin at the lake. Paths lead up to the Säntis, the highest peak in the range, along the ridge toward the Schäfler, with its famous mountain inn, and over passes to other valleys. The walk to the Schäfler, with views over the lake from above, is a classic, and the Meglisalp, a small high pasture with a few huts, is another attractive goal. Experienced walkers can use the lake as a base for a day or two in the mountains, staying in huts and inns.

The lake suits families, walkers and photographers. Allow at least half a day for the walk there and back with a rest at the shore, and more if you extend the route. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water, sun protection and a layer for the cooler air, and check the weather, since storms can build up quickly in the afternoon. Arrive early in high season to enjoy the lake at its quietest.