Ebenalp

Ebenalp is a mountain terrace in the Alpstein range, in the canton of Appenzell Innerrhoden, at about 1,640 metres above sea level. It is one of the best-known viewpoints in eastern Switzerland, and one of the easiest to reach, thanks to a cable car that runs from the village of Wasserauen. The ride takes only a few minutes, and it lifts passengers from a green valley floor to the edge of the rocky Alpstein massif, where the landscape changes from meadows and forest to limestone cliffs and open pasture. The Alpstein is a compact mountain range, with Säntis, at about 2,500 metres, as its highest peak, and from Ebenalp it dominates the view to the south-west.

The summit area is a broad, grassy ridge with a mountain restaurant and a viewing terrace. The view looks north over the rolling hills of Appenzell and, on a clear day, to Lake Constance and the hills of Germany and Austria beyond. In other directions it takes in the Alpstein summits, the valley of the Seealpsee far below and the Vorarlberg Alps. The scenery is typical of the Appenzell region, a land of green hills, scattered farmhouses and sharp contrasts between the gentle lowlands and the sheer rock faces of the mountains.

The area around Ebenalp is full of things to see and do. Several well-known features lie within a short walk of the summit. The Wildkirchli, a set of caves in the cliff face, has been used as a hermitage and chapel for centuries and was also the site of prehistoric finds, and the Berggasthaus Aescher, a mountain inn built into the cliff, is one of the most photographed buildings in Switzerland. Both are described separately, and both can be reached by paths that begin near the cable car station. A longer hike leads down to the Seealpsee, a lake in a high valley, and a route continues toward the ridge of the Schäfler, so Ebenalp serves as the starting point for a range of walks of different lengths.

Ebenalp is also a place where the culture of Appenzell can be seen. The region is known for its dairy farming, with Appenzeller cheese, a strongly flavoured hard cheese made from cow's milk and washed with a herbal brine, among its best-known products. Traditional customs such as folk music, yodelling and cattle drives to and from the high pastures in spring and autumn are still part of local life, and the painted wooden farmhouses are a familiar sight. A visit to Ebenalp can be combined with a stop at the village of Appenzell, which has a colourful main street.

The cable car runs daily, but it follows seasonal timetables and may be closed for maintenance or in bad weather, so check the current schedule before you go. The summit is exposed, and conditions can change quickly, so bring warm clothing and sturdy shoes. In winter, snowshoeing and winter walking are possible on prepared routes. Ebenalp suits families, hikers and anyone who wants an easy ascent with a big view, and allow at least half a day if you plan to include the caves or a walk.