Schäfler Ridge

The Schäfler Ridge is a ridge in the Alpstein, the limestone range of north-eastern Switzerland that rises above Appenzell, and it is one of the best viewpoints in the area. The ridge reaches a height of about 1,900 metres, and a mountain guesthouse, the Berggasthaus Schäfler, stands on its crest, built into the steep slope with a terrace that hangs above a drop of several hundred metres. The scenery is dramatic, with the Säntis, the highest peak of the Alpstein, rising across the valley, and on a clear day the view reaches to Lake Constance and the Vorarlberg mountains.

The walk is simple to reach. From Wasserauen, at the end of the railway line from Appenzell, a cable car carries visitors up to the Ebenalp, a high plateau with a mountain inn and the famous Wildkirchli caves in the cliffs nearby. From the Ebenalp, a marked path leads along the ridge to the Schäfler, taking roughly an hour in each direction, with some ups and downs along the way. The path is a standard mountain trail, not technical, but it passes steep slopes in places and can be slippery after rain, so wear sturdy walking shoes and take care. Hikers can also climb up from Wasserauen directly, a longer and steeper ascent, or continue from the Schäfler to the Seealpsee, a small lake in a deep valley, completing a classic circuit.

The Schäfler is best known for the light at sunrise and sunset. In the evening, the cliffs of the Alpstein glow orange and red, and valleys below fill with mist and shadow, while at dawn the sun rises behind the distant ranges. Many hikers choose to stay overnight at the guesthouse to see both, and it is worth booking early in summer, as places are limited. Because of the altitude and the exposed position, it gets cold after dark and the wind can be strong, so bring warm layers, a headlamp and rain protection even on a summer day. Wild camping is not a good choice in this area, and the guesthouses and huts are the sensible option for staying overnight.

The Alpstein has a dense network of paths, huts and viewpoints, and the Schäfler fits into longer routes along the ridge to the Ebenalp, the Seealpsee and beyond. Conditions vary through the season, and snow can linger into early summer, so check the status of the cable car and the paths before you go.

The ridge suits hikers of moderate fitness, photographers and anyone who loves a good sunset. Choose a clear evening, and plan your descent carefully before the light fades.