Rhaetian Museum

The Rhaetian Museum, the Rätisches Museum, is the historical museum of the canton of Graubünden and stands in Chur’s Old Town. It is housed in the Haus Buol, a Baroque patrician townhouse built in 1675, with high rooms, wooden panelling and a grand staircase, and the museum’s four floors, including a vaulted basement, give it a very different feeling from a modern gallery. The building itself is part of the exhibit, a reminder of the wealthy merchant and official families who ran Chur in the 17th century.

The name Rhaetian refers to the ancient people who lived in the Alps before the Romans and gave their name to Rhaetia, the Roman province that covered much of what is now eastern Switzerland. The museum’s permanent exhibition follows the story of the region from prehistory to the present. It begins with archaeological finds from Stone Age and Bronze Age sites, then moves through the Roman period, when Chur was an important town on the routes over the Alpine passes, and the early Middle Ages, when it became the seat of a bishop. Later rooms show the rise of the Three Leagues, the loose federation of communities that formed the early state of Graubünden, as well as the Reformation, the effects of trade and emigration, and the arrival of the railways and modern tourism.

Alongside archaeology and history, the collection includes everyday objects, costumes, tools, furniture and ethnographic material that show how people lived in the mountains. Because Graubünden is a trilingual canton, with German, Romansh and Italian spoken in different valleys, the museum also touches on the languages and traditions that make the region distinctive. Temporary exhibitions deal with contemporary themes and local culture and change from time to time, so there is something new to see on return visits.

The museum makes a point of welcoming families, with activities and materials designed for children, and it has a small shop selling books and gifts inspired by the region. Parts of the building are accessible by lift, though the old basement has an uneven stone floor. Opening times and prices change, so check them before your visit.

It is a good first stop for visitors to Graubünden’s capital, since it provides the historical background that makes the cathedral, the old town and the mountain landscapes easier to read. It suits history lovers, families and curious travellers. Allow around two hours, and combine it with the Graubünden Museum of Art and a walk through the old town.