Piazza Riforma (Lugano)

Piazza della Riforma is the main square of Lugano and the place where the city does most of its public living. It lies a few minutes' walk from the lake and from the funicular that links the old town to the railway station, and almost every route through the old centre passes through or near it. The square is surrounded by arcaded buildings, cafés and restaurants, and on its north side stands the Town Hall, the Palazzo Civico, a neoclassical building from the nineteenth century. It is where local people meet, where visitors sit with a coffee and where the city holds public events.

The shape of the square is simple. It is a broad, level rectangle paved with stone, open enough for stages and market stalls, but framed by buildings that give it the feel of an outdoor room. Along the edges, café terraces fill with tables in good weather, and the colourful façades of the buildings, painted in warm yellows, ochres and pinks, create a mood that is typically Lombard. The architecture reflects the city's close ties to northern Italy, as Lugano was long under the rule of the Swiss Confederates but remained Italian in language and culture. Several of the buildings carry decorative cornices and balconies, and the ground floors lead into arcades with shops.

Markets and events give the square variety. A regular market is held here on selected mornings during the week, selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, bread and other regional produce, and the days and hours are posted locally. Through the year the square hosts concerts, festivals and open-air screenings, which can last into the night, and in summer it is a favourite venue for music events that draw crowds from around the lake. At Christmas the square is decorated with lights, and a skating rink and stalls appear in some years. Because the programme changes, it is worth checking the city's event calendar for what is on during your visit.

The square is also a good base for exploring. Via Nassa, the arcaded shopping street, runs from the square toward the lake, and the church of Santa Maria degli Angioli, with its Renaissance frescoes, is a short walk along the shore. The funicular from Piazza Cioccaro takes you up to the station in a couple of minutes, and the cathedral of San Lorenzo is a short climb. Boat trips on the lake leave from the landing stages by the lakefront, and you can walk to them in a few minutes.

The square is open to everyone at any hour, and there is no entry fee. It suits couples, families, shoppers and anyone who wants to watch city life from a café table. A visit can last as long as a coffee or as long as an afternoon with a market and a meal. Prices at the cafés on the square are higher than in side streets, which is typical of central squares in Switzerland, so consider a drink here and a meal in a quieter lane.