Gandria Village

Gandria is a village on the northern shore of Lake Lugano, a few kilometres east of the city, and it is often described as the prettiest place on the lake. The houses are stacked up a steep slope above the water in tight rows, with narrow stairways, arched passages and small squares between them, and the whole village is so compact that its lanes are too narrow for cars. The village was long cut off from the road network and lived from fishing, farming and, famously, smuggling across the nearby border with Italy. That past gave rise to the Swiss Customs Museum, which is housed in an old customs building on the lake near the village and tells the story of border control and contraband in the region.

There are three classic ways to arrive. The easiest and most romantic is by boat from Lugano, on a trip that takes about half an hour and shows the village from the water, with its colourful façades reflected in the lake. A second is by bus, which follows the road along the shore from the city. The third is on foot, along the Olive Trail, a path that runs from Castagnola, on the edge of Lugano, to Gandria, past olive trees, small gardens, stone walls and viewpoints over the lake. The walk takes about an hour and is not difficult, though there are some steps, and it is a good way to see the landscape at close quarters. Many visitors walk one way and return by boat.

Once in the village, the best plan is to walk down to the water and then wander upward. The lanes lead past small chapels, fountains and houses with wooden balconies, and at the waterfront there are terraces where you can sit with a drink. Gandria is known for its grotti, traditional Ticinese restaurants that began as cellars or caves used to keep wine and food cool. Menus feature local dishes such as polenta, braised beef, fish from the lake and cold cuts, and the Merlot of Ticino is the usual accompaniment. Several of the places have terraces right beside the water, which makes them popular in summer.

The area is also good for walking and nature. The slopes of Monte Brè rise behind the village and are covered with chestnut and mixed woodland, and trails lead up toward viewpoints and farther along the lake toward the Italian border. The vegetation is mild and almost subtropical in places, with palms, laurel and olive, reflecting the sheltered climate.

Gandria suits couples, photographers, walkers and anyone who enjoys a short, scenic trip from the city. The village is small and gets crowded on summer weekends and when the boats arrive in the afternoon, so a morning or evening visit is quieter. It is open at all times, though restaurants and the museum have their own seasons, so check the details before you plan a meal or visit. Allow two to three hours for the village and the walk, and bring good walking shoes, a hat and water. Boat schedules vary with the season, and the last boat back should be checked before you settle down for a meal.