Cathedral Of The Assumption (Chur Cathedral)

From Switzerland’s oldest town, the Cathedral of the Assumption in Chur is best understood as a building that changed its mind while it was being built. Work began in the middle of the 12th century in the Romanesque style, with round arches, thick piers and heavy walls, and continued until the cathedral was consecrated in 1272, by which time the Gothic style had arrived from the west. As a result the church mixes the two: Romanesque in its lower parts and general plan, and early Gothic in the pointed arches and details that appear as you move toward the west. Christian worship on the hill is much older than the building, and Chur’s bishops are recorded from the 5th century onward.

The approach is through the quiet precinct of the Hof, past the Bishop’s Palace, and the cathedral’s outside appears rather plain. The west front and its entrance are the main decorated part, with columns and carved capitals. Early Gothic floral capitals and the colourful archways of the portal show the transition between styles, and a large window on the central axis is among the largest medieval windows in Graubünden. The design was shaped by the mountainous terrain and the practical limits of the site, which sits on a rocky terrace above the old town.

Inside, the nave is divided into three aisles by strong piers, and the capitals on many of them carry Romanesque sculpture, with animals, human heads and plant forms carved in stone. The raised choir with its carved wooden stalls and the crypt below show other layers of the church’s history. The high altar, a late Gothic work by the sculptor Jakob Russ from the end of the 15th century, is the most spectacular piece, with a golden carved scene spreading across a huge frame. The cathedral underwent a lengthy restoration in the 2000s that cleaned and consolidated the stonework and paintings, and it is now in good condition.

The cathedral is open to visitors outside services, and it can be seen on your own or with a guide who explains the architecture and the story of the diocese. Because it is a living church, there are times when parts are closed for services or events, so check the current schedule on the cathedral’s website before planning a visit. The nearby Cathedral Treasure Museum shows liturgical objects from the diocese, and the Rhaetian Museum and the cantonal museums are within walking distance. Another entry covers the same church under the shorter name Chur Cathedral, so this one has concentrated on the building’s architecture and its art.

It suits architecture and art lovers, history fans and visitors who enjoy quiet interiors. Allow an hour, and bring a layer, as the stone interior is cool even in summer.