Castelgrande

Castelgrande rises above the centre of Bellinzona on a steep rock, and it is the oldest and largest of the town's three castles. Together with Montebello and Sasso Corbaro and the walls that link them, it forms a group inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2000. The rock has been occupied for thousands of years, and archaeological work has found traces from prehistoric times and from the Roman period. The position made sense for every ruler: Bellinzona controls a narrow stretch of the Ticino valley at the southern foot of the Alpine passes, so whoever held it could close the route between the plains of Lombardy and the lands north of the Alps.

During the Middle Ages the hill was fortified by local lords and bishops, and in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries the dukes of Milan, first the Visconti and then the Sforza, strengthened it into a major stronghold. They added walls, towers and the long fortified wall that runs down the slope into the valley and closes the passage across it. In 1500 Bellinzona came under the Swiss cantons of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden, and the castle was long known as the Castle of Uri. Ticino became its own canton in 1803.

The fortress remained in military use for centuries but fell into decay in the nineteenth century and was later restored, with a major renovation in the twentieth century led by the architect Aurelio Galfetti. His work added modern elements, including a lift cut through the rock from the town below, and gave the site a clear mixed character of ancient stone and contemporary design.

Visitors walk up through gateways and across courtyards to the ramparts and towers, where there are wide views over Bellinzona's roofs, the valley and the surrounding mountains. A museum in the castle presents archaeological finds and tells the story of the site from prehistory to the present, and temporary exhibitions and events are held in the courtyards. A restaurant at the castle makes it possible to eat on the terrace and enjoy the same views. At the foot of the hill, Piazza del Sole and the old town lie close by, so you can combine the castle with a walk through the centre of Bellinzona.

Castelgrande suits history readers, photographers and families with children who like castle walls, and it is also a good starting point for seeing the other two castles. The walk to Montebello is short, and Sasso Corbaro is higher up and takes longer. Allow around two hours for the castle on its own, and check the current opening times, seasons and ticket details on the official Bellinzona tourism website, as they change through the year. Good shoes are useful, because some of the paths are steep and paved with old stone.