Vals

Vals lies tucked away at the end of a deep alpine valley in Graubünden, and it combines natural beauty, wellness and Swiss tradition. The village’s history is shaped by its remote position and by water, which carved the valley and has supported its people for centuries. Vals is a Walser village, settled by German-speaking migrants who came over the mountains, and the Walser language and customs still mark the valley, which sits in a region where Romansh and German meet.

History and Heritage The origins of Vals go back to the Middle Ages, when settlers established farms and hamlets along the fertile slopes. For generations the community lived by farming, sheep keeping and the use of local mineral springs. The discovery of the healing powers of the thermal water in the 19th century was a turning point, bringing visitors who wanted health and rest. This tradition led to the Therme Vals, a striking spa complex by the architect Peter Zumthor, opened in 1996. Built from local quartzite and set into the landscape, the spa has become a place of pilgrimage for architecture lovers and wellness seekers alike.

Main Attractions The Therme Vals is the village’s highlight, a bathing experience in mineral-rich water among minimalist stone architecture and mountain views. The spa’s quiet pools, steam baths and rest rooms are a place of calm for body and mind. Beyond the spa, Vals has a village centre of traditional wooden houses, the Valser Kristallkeller (crystal cellar), which shows local geology, and the historic Kapelle Jakobus der Ältere, a chapel with centuries-old roots.

Nature lovers will find plenty to explore. The Zervreilastausee, a dramatic reservoir at the head of the valley, is ringed by rugged peaks and offers hiking, fishing and wonderful photographs. Marked trails lead to alpine pastures, waterfalls and viewpoints, with routes for all levels. In summer the meadows burst with wildflowers, and in autumn golden larches and crisp mountain air fill the valley.

Activities Vals is a destination for outdoor adventure and relaxation all year. In summer, hiking, mountain biking and trail running are popular, with routes from gentle valley walks to demanding high-altitude treks, and the clear streams invite fishing or a cool dip on a warm day. Guided tours and wellness workshops are offered at the spa and in the village. A downhill scooter run from Zervreila gives a lively way down for families, and the neighbouring Safiental valley adds a second remote landscape to explore.

Winter turns Vals into a peaceful alpine retreat, with skiing, snowshoeing and winter hiking. The small local ski area suits families and beginners, while the surrounding mountains offer backcountry runs for experienced skiers. After a day outdoors, visitors can warm up in the thermal baths or enjoy Swiss food in one of the village’s cosy restaurants.

Getting There Vals can be reached by car or public transport, though its remote position adds to its charm. Regular trains link Chur with Ilanz, from where post buses make the scenic journey up the valley to Vals. By car, the drive from Chur takes about 90 minutes, with parking in the village. The trip itself is part of the experience, winding through dramatic alpine landscapes and pretty villages.

Seasonal Advice June to September is the best period, when the weather is mild and the hiking trails are open. Summer offers lush meadows and lively village life, while autumn is quieter and good for wellness stays. Winter is peaceful, with snow sports and the special mood of the spa. Spring brings melting snow and rushing streams, though some high trails stay closed. In every season Vals’ mix of nature, wellness and tradition makes a memorable Swiss escape.