Therme Vals

Therme Vals is a thermal bath in the village of Vals, in the Valsertal of Graubünden, designed by the Swiss architect Peter Zumthor and opened in 1996. It is widely regarded as one of the most important buildings of its generation, and it draws architecture students and enthusiasts from all over the world as well as people who simply want to bathe in good water. The building is set into the hillside above the village, and its flat grass roof means that from the slope above it almost disappears into the landscape. From below, it appears as a long, low block of stone, with horizontal slits of glass and dark openings.

The material is the key to its character. The walls, floors and benches are built from local quartzite, a grey stone quarried in the valley, which was cut into thin slabs and laid in layers, in dry-looking horizontal courses that resemble natural rock strata. The effect is of a cave or a quarry hollowed out of the mountain, with a powerful sense of mass and shadow. Inside, the building is composed of a series of interlocking stone blocks, each forming a room or pool, with light entering through narrow gaps between the roof slabs, so that beams of daylight fall on the water and the stone. The design deliberately avoids decoration, and concentrates attention on stone, water, light and sound.

The water comes from a natural spring in the valley at around thirty degrees Celsius, which has been known since the nineteenth century and gave the village its early reputation as a spa. The pools are set at different temperatures, so that visitors can move from one to the next. There is a hot bath at around forty degrees, a cold plunge at much lower temperature, a large indoor pool with a connection to an outdoor pool, from which one can look out over the valley, and smaller rooms for particular experiences, such as a flower bath with petals floating on the water, a steam bath and a sound room where the acoustics amplify humming and singing. Bathing is often done in silence, and the building has a quiet, meditative atmosphere.

Zumthor's design has been recognised by the Swiss authorities as a significant work, and the building is a protected monument of national importance. The complex also includes a hotel, which was adapted in recent years with work by several well-known architects, and a restaurant. The village of Vals is also known for its mineral water, which is bottled and sold across Switzerland.

Getting to Vals takes some effort, since the valley is a long drive from the main roads and public transport connections run on a limited timetable, with a bus from Ilanz. This remoteness adds to the sense of retreat. Because capacity is limited, advance booking is advisable, and rules about age, silence and photography are usually enforced, so check the current regulations on the official website. Allow at least two to four hours for a visit. The bath suits adults who value architecture and quiet. Bring swimwear if required, a towel can be hired, and plan to stay in the valley overnight if you can, to enjoy the surroundings, including the Zervreila dam.