Stockalper Palace

The Stockalper Palace is the grandest private building of the seventeenth century in Switzerland, a large complex on the edge of the old centre of Brig, in the Upper Valais, near the foot of the Simplon Pass. Its builder was Kaspar Jodok von Stockalper, born in 1609, who became one of the richest men in the country and was known as the King of the Simplon. He made his fortune by controlling the traffic over the pass, which linked the Valais with northern Italy, and by organising the transport of goods, among them salt, cloth and metals, which he supplied across the region. He also served as a military officer, a politician and a financier, and he built up a vast network of trade and loans. The palace, which he built between 1658 and 1678, was the proof of his power and ambition.

The building is a compact but monumental block of three wings around an arcaded courtyard, closed on the fourth side by a wall with a gateway, and it is defined by three tall towers. The towers are named after the three kings of the Nativity story, Kaspar, Melchior and Balthasar, and they were, according to tradition, a play on the builder's own first name. The towers rise above the roofs and are crowned with onion-shaped domes, which give the palace a rather eastern appearance and make it a recognisable landmark of the town. The wings have arcades on the ground floor, and large halls on the upper floors, with painted ceilings, carved woodwork and tiled stoves of fine quality. The palace combined the functions of home, warehouse, office and fortress, and so it has thick walls, a large courtyard and storerooms.

Stockalper's fortunes turned. Rivals in the Valais and political opponents brought him down in the 1670s, and he was accused of abuses of power, forced to flee and later returned to Brig, where he spent his last years. The palace remained in the family for generations, and in the twentieth century it was acquired by a foundation that restored it and opened it to the public. It now houses a museum and cultural centre, and the interior can be visited on guided tours, where you can see the kitchen, the great halls, a chapel and the family's rooms, with furniture, paintings and objects that tell of life in a prosperous household. The courtyard, with its arcades and its tall towers, is the best-known view, and the palace garden, laid out in the formal style, offers a quiet corner.

The palace is in the town centre, a short walk from the railway station, and it can be visited with the Sebastian Chapel and other sights of Brig. The town is also the gateway to the Simplon Pass, which can be crossed by road, bus or train through the Simplon tunnel, and its position explains why Stockalper's trade flourished. Opening times, tours and ticket prices vary by season, so check the official website, and note that events such as concerts and festivals are held in the courtyard in summer.

The palace suits history readers, architecture lovers and families. Allow one to two hours for a visit. Wear comfortable shoes, and note that some parts of the building have steps and narrow stairs.