Musikfest

Ernen is a small, well-preserved village in the Goms, in the Swiss Alps, the upper Rhone valley in the canton of Valais, at around 1,200 metres on a sunny terrace above the river. It is known for its old timber houses and for an unlikely cultural distinction: every summer it hosts one of Switzerland’s more important classical music festivals, the Festival Musikdorf Ernen, usually called the Musikfest. The festival was founded in 1975 by the Hungarian pianist György Sebők, who had a holiday home in the area and wanted to create a place where musicians and listeners could meet in a relaxed and unforced atmosphere.

The idea behind the festival is an informal, village-scale gathering of musicians. Rather than a sequence of grand concerts in a big hall, the programme brings together artists of international standing for recitals, chamber concerts, master classes and discussions, with many events taking place in the village’s historic buildings. The St. George’s Church, the Georgskirche, a late Gothic church with a famous painted interior and good acoustics, is the main concert venue, and its intimate size allows the audience to sit close to the musicians. Programmes cover baroque, classical and romantic repertoire as well as contemporary music and, in some years, jazz and world music. Distinguished soloists have performed here over the decades, and the festival has built a loyal audience.

The village itself is part of the experience. Ernen has a broad central square with a fountain and old houses, among them the Tellenhaus, a 16th-century timber house with a painted frieze that includes scenes from the legend of William Tell, and the former administrative building of the Goms district. Narrow lanes, timber barns on stone stilts and views over the valley and the mountains complete the picture. The Val d’Ernen and the Goms are quiet, with a long cross-country skiing and cycling tradition, and the Rhone here is a small mountain stream rather than the large river that it becomes lower down.

The festival usually runs from the end of July into September, with the programme published well in advance. Ticket prices vary by event, and some events are free or inexpensive, and booking early is wise for the better-known performers. Accommodation in the village is limited, so many visitors stay in nearby villages of the Goms. Because dates, themes and artists change each year, check the festival’s own website for the current programme.

The festival suits classical music lovers, culture-minded travellers and anyone who enjoys music in a small mountain village. Combine a concert with a walk through the old village and the valley.