Ernen Village Square

Ernen sits on a sunny terrace on the northern side of the upper Rhone valley, in the Goms district of Valais, and its centre is one of the best preserved village ensembles in the canton. The main square, known as the Tellenplatz, is lined with dark timber houses whose weathered wood has the deep brown that comes from centuries of mountain sun. The square is not large, but it is arranged so that every side offers something to look at: stone steps, carved doorframes, window shutters and the heavy proportions of houses built to withstand snow.

The most famous building is the Tellenhaus, a timber house from the late sixteenth century that takes its name from the paintings of the William Tell legend on its facade. Tell is not an incidental decoration here: the house is a reminder of the importance the story held for the Swiss communities that built their identity around it. Close by stand other substantial wooden houses that once belonged to prosperous families in the days when the Goms was a trade route over the passes.

The square carries a strong sense of the village as a working legal and social centre. Ernen was historically the seat of the district's authorities, and the open space was where public business and gatherings took place. A tree on the square, the church above and the rows of houses give it the feel of a place built for community life rather than for show.

Everyday atmosphere is calm. There is little traffic, and most visitors arrive on foot, walking down from the church or the nearby lanes. In summer the village becomes a stage for the Musikdorf Ernen festival, a chamber music series founded by the pianist Gyorgy Sebok, and concerts are held in the village's historic spaces. Those evenings bring a different kind of life to the square, but outside festival season the village returns to its quiet routine.

Ernen suits anyone who enjoys architecture, hiking and slow travel. Trails lead through meadows and larch forest to neighbouring villages in the Goms, and the village's position makes it a good base for exploring the Val d'Ernen area. A walk around the square and its side lanes takes an hour or two, longer if you stop to read the facades.