Muotzas Muragl (Funicular/Viewpoint)

Muottas Muragl is a mountain viewpoint in the Upper Engadine, at about 2,450 metres, on the north-western side of the valley above Samedan and Pontresina, and it offers one of the best views of the Engadine lakes and the Bernina range. It is reached by a funicular from the valley station at Punt Muragl, which opened in the early twentieth century and is one of the older mountain railways of the region. The cars climb steeply through forest and then over open slopes, in a journey of about ten minutes, and the line has been modernised while retaining its historic character. The summit station stands on a shelf of rock with a hotel and restaurant, which were built in the same period and give the place a faintly old-fashioned, grand atmosphere.

The view is the reason for the trip. From the terrace, the whole valley of the Upper Engadine lies below, a broad, flat trough with a chain of lakes, Sils, Silvaplana, Champfèr and St. Moritz, shining in sequence, and the green and gold of the larch forests rising on either side. Across the valley the Bernina group, with Piz Bernina at 4,049 metres, the only 4,000-metre peak in the eastern Alps, forms a wall of snow and ice, and the peaks and glaciers of Piz Roseg, Piz Morteratsch and others complete the picture. The air is clear and dry, and the light is famous, a quality that painters such as Giovanni Segantini tried to capture. Sunset and sunrise are particularly beautiful, and the hotel is popular for evening meals.

A well-known walking route starts at the summit station. The Philosophers' Path, a circular trail of an hour or two, passes a series of stations where quotations by philosophers and writers are placed along the way, intended as prompts for reflection as you walk, with the view as the backdrop. The path is mostly gentle and suitable for families, with a few steeper stretches, and it includes a sundial and viewing points. Longer routes lead along the ridge toward Alp Languard and Pontresina or down to the valley via the Alp Muragl, and a good number of walkers use the funicular for the ascent and descend on foot, a walk of about two hours.

In winter, the mountain is a favourite for evening outings. A toboggan run, one of the longest in the region, leads from the top to the valley, and hotel guests and visitors can rent sleds and race down in the evening light after a meal at the restaurant. Winter walking paths are groomed, and snowshoe routes lead into the quiet terrain. The funicular continues to operate through the winter, and the terrace becomes a sun trap on clear days.

Timetables change by season, and the funicular is often closed for maintenance periods in spring and autumn, so check the operator's information before you go. Bring warm clothing and sunglasses, since the sun at altitude is strong and the wind can be cold. The viewpoint suits families, couples, walkers and photographers. Allow two to three hours for a visit with a short walk and a meal.