Lake St. Moritz

St. Moritz sits on the northern shore of its own small lake, in the Upper Engadin valley of Graubünden, at an altitude of roughly 1,800 metres. The lake lies at about 1,770 metres, a basin of clear water ringed by pine forest and by the rounded peaks of the Engadin. Its Romansh name is Lej da San Murezzan, a reminder that Romansh is still spoken in this part of Switzerland. The lake is not large, but it is the centre around which the resort is arranged, and the walks, hotels and views all relate to it.

The seasons change the lake completely. In summer it is blue and bright, with a path along the shore for strolling, small boats and, thanks to the steady Maloja wind that blows up the valley, a popular place for windsurfing and sailing. Hotels and villas line the shore, and the contrast between the mountain landscape and the elegant architecture is part of the St. Moritz appeal. A circuit of the lake on foot takes a relaxed hour or so and gives views of the town, the church tower and the surrounding peaks from changing angles.

In winter the lake freezes thick enough to bear a great deal of weight, and then it becomes one of the most unusual venues in world sport. Horse races on the snow-covered ice, known as the White Turf, have been run here every February for more than a century, with thoroughbreds galloping across the frozen surface in front of a crowd on the shore. Other events held on the ice include polo and cricket matches, played in the thin cold air with the mountains as a backdrop. Cross-country skiers use tracks that run across the lake, and walkers follow cleared paths over the ice when conditions allow.

The lake has a role in local history as well. St. Moritz built its reputation as a winter resort in the nineteenth century, when guests from Britain tried out winter stays and showed that the mountains could be enjoyed in the cold season. The nearby Leaning Tower of St. Moritz, a remnant of an old church, is a landmark of the old village.

Getting to St. Moritz is part of the experience. The Rhaetian Railway runs through spectacular scenery from Chur and over the Albula pass, and the line is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The lake is a short walk from the station.