Medieval Ramparts Of Gruyères

Gruyères is a small hill town in the canton of Fribourg that looks as if it has been lifted out of the Middle Ages, and the ramparts that surround it are a large part of that impression. The town stands on a ridge above the valley of the Saane, with a castle at one end and a single main street running along the crest, and the walls follow the edge of the ridge, enclosing a compact settlement that has hardly grown since the Middle Ages. The Counts of Gruyère built and strengthened the walls from the 13th century, and their line of towers and gates still shapes the outline of the town.

The walls are most striking from a distance. As you approach from the valley, the town sits on its hill, with walls, towers and the castle’s tall keep above the roofs, and from the fields below the ramparts rise in a continuous line. Inside, the main street is cobbled and lined with old houses, restaurants and shops, and the town is closed to cars, so visitors park outside and walk up through the gate. The walls are best explored on foot, along paths and stairways that lead along the inner or outer side, and where it is possible to walk on top of the ramparts, the view over the roofs and the surrounding countryside is excellent. From the walls you look out over the green pastures of the Gruyère region, the Lac de la Gruyère in the valley and, to the south, the jagged peaks of the Fribourg Pre-Alps, among them the Moléson.

The defences were never very large, but they were effective in a world of small lordships. Gates controlled entry to the town and collected tolls, towers allowed defenders to watch the approaches, and the ridge itself made attack difficult. Today they contribute to the atmosphere, and the interplay of stone walls, flower-decked houses and distant mountains is one of the most photogenic views in Switzerland. Accessibility varies by section, since some stretches are open to walkers while others are private or closed, and steps can be steep or uneven, so look for signs and take care. Opening hours may depend on the season, so check locally, particularly in winter, when snow and ice can close sections.

A walk along the ramparts fits naturally with a visit to the castle and its art collection, the cobbled streets and the cheese for which the region is famous. The show dairy at the foot of the hill demonstrates how Gruyère cheese is made, and local restaurants serve fondue and meringues with thick cream. The H.R. Giger Museum is also in the town, a strong contrast.

The ramparts suit history lovers, photographers and families. Allow an hour for the walls, and more if you add the castle and the cheese dairy.