Fribourg Pre-Alps Panorama

The old town of Gruyères sits on a hill above the Sarine valley in the canton of Fribourg, and from its ramparts and the castle terraces the eye ranges over one of the gentlest alpine landscapes in Switzerland. This is the Fribourg Pre-Alps, a belt of green hills, forested spurs and rounded summits that stand in front of the high Alps rather than among them. Pastures cover almost every slope, dotted with chalets, and the whole country has the look of a postcard from the dairy heartland.

The most recognisable summit in the scene is the Moléson, a pointed peak of just over 2,000 metres that rises above the village and dominates the horizon to the south-east. In front of it the hills run down to the artificial Lac de la Gruyère, a long blue reservoir created by damming the Sarine, which adds a flash of colour to the view. Roofs and towers of the medieval town in the foreground give a human scale to the scene. In clear weather the more distant ridges of the Fribourg and Vaud Alps appear behind them in soft layers.

The landscape is also what gives the region its famous food. Cows grazing the high pastures produce the milk for Gruyère cheese, and the dairies and cheesemakers in the villages around welcome visitors to see the process. Double cream and meringues are the usual accompaniment, and a table on a terrace with this view is a pleasant way to end a walk along the ramparts.

Four kilometres away at Broc, the chocolate factory of Maison Cailler offers another reason to come to the area. Cailler is one of Switzerland's oldest chocolate brands, and the factory welcomes guests to follow the story of cocoa from bean to bar and to taste the products.

The best time for the panorama is early morning or the hour before sunset, when the light picks out the folds of the hills. Spring brings bright green slopes and snow still clinging to the summits, while autumn offers clearer air and golden colours. The viewpoint suits slow strolling, photography and anyone who wants to understand why this region is so closely tied to its cows, cheese and mountains.