Lake Lucerne

Lake Lucerne, or the Vierwaldstättersee in German, sits in the middle of Switzerland in every sense: the lake touches five cantons, Lucerne, Uri, Schwyz, Nidwalden and Obwalden, and the name Vierwaldstättersee means the lake of the four forest cantons, a reference to the original members of the Swiss Confederation who lived on its shores. Its shape is the first thing visitors notice on a map. Instead of a simple oval, the lake spreads in several arms and bays separated by headlands, each with its own character, because ancient glaciers carved the valleys that later filled with water.

This tangled shape gives the lake an extraordinary variety of views. Near the city of Lucerne, the water is broad and open, with the peaks of Pilatus and the Rigi rising on either side. Farther south the Urnersee narrows into a deep, steep-sided fjord-like arm, where cliffs fall straight into the water and the Alps close in. Between them lie quiet bays, wooded promontories and villages with small harbours, each of them a good place to stop for a walk or a meal.

The best way to appreciate the lake is from the water. Boats of the Lake Lucerne Navigation Company link the main towns, and the fleet includes several historic paddle steamers, which are among the most distinctive vessels of any Swiss lake. A cruise on one of them, with the wheels turning and the engine room open to view, is a highlight for many visitors. Boats connect with mountain railways and cable cars at lakeside stations, so a day can combine a trip across the water with a ride up the Rigi, Pilatus or the Bürgenstock.

The lake is also an essential site of Swiss history. On its southern shore lies the Rütli meadow, which tradition names as the place where the first confederates swore their oath in 1291, and nearby stands the Tell Chapel, linked with the legend of William Tell. The story of Tell, who is said to have escaped from a boat on this lake, is told in schools across the country, and visitors can follow it along the shore by boat and on foot.

Swimming, sailing and walking are popular in summer, and towns such as Weggis and Vitznau have mild air and gardens with subtropical plants. Lucerne itself, with its covered Chapel Bridge, is a short walk from the lakefront.