Excursions By The Water

Lucerne sits where the river Reuss leaves the lake, and the lake, the Vierwaldstättersee, has been the main attraction of the city for two centuries. Boat trips on its waters are among the most popular excursions in central Switzerland, and they come in several forms, from a brief cruise around the bay to a day-long journey to the far end of the lake and back. The boats leave from landing stages in front of the railway station, a few steps from the old town, and the main operator runs a regular network of lines to the lakeside villages as well as special cruises, so you can choose according to your time and interests.

A short cruise of an hour or so takes you out of the Lucerne bay, past the lakeside villas and parks, and into the wider basin, with views back to the old town, the Chapel Bridge and the towers, and across to the Rigi and Pilatus. Longer trips go to places along the shore. Weggis and Vitznau, on the north shore of the lake below the Rigi, are two pleasant villages with promenades and mild climates, and they are the starting points of the mountain railways to the Rigi. Alpnachstad, in an inner bay, is the station of the cogwheel railway to Pilatus. Farther on, the lake narrows into the Urnersee, the southern arm, a deep fjord-like basin ringed by steep cliffs, where the landing at the Rütli and Tells Platte recall the legends of the Confederation, and the town of Flüelen lies at the end. Passengers can combine a boat trip with a train, bus or cable car in a circular route, which is a common way to see the region.

The boats themselves are a part of the pleasure. The fleet includes a group of historic paddle steamers, with engines on display and wooden decks, and modern motor vessels. Some cruises include meals, with lunch or dinner served on board, and others have live music in the evenings. Travel passes and regional cards often cover the boats, which can reduce the cost, so look at what is valid. Timetables vary with the season, and some lines run only in summer, while in winter services are reduced, so check before you plan.

The lake is also a stage for local culture. The city hosts the Lucerne Festival, a summer series of classical music in the concert hall on the lakefront, a building with a striking cantilevered roof, and a Light Festival in winter, when installations illuminate the old town and the shore. Excursions on the water can be combined with these, and special concert cruises are sometimes organised. The old town is a short walk from the landing stages, with the covered wooden Chapel Bridge, the Lion Monument and the museums, so a day in Lucerne can include land and water.

The tourist office is at the railway station and can provide tickets, maps and advice on routes. Weather affects the experience: on clear days the views are superb, while in cloud and rain the mountains disappear, though the lake retains a moody charm. Bring a jacket, since it is breezy on deck, and sun protection in summer. The excursions suit all ages, and a short cruise takes one to two hours, while a full-day circuit with a mountain railway takes six to eight hours.