Hilltop Castles Of Aargau

Aargau is a canton of hills and river valleys, and almost every hill with a view of the surrounding country seems to carry a castle. This is no accident: the area lay between powerful rulers in the Middle Ages, and its nobles built strongholds to control roads, rivers and farmland. Several of the best have survived and now serve as museums or cultural venues, with Lenzburg, Habsburg, Wildegg and Hallwyl the best known. Visiting one or two of them gives a good picture of medieval and early modern life in Switzerland, and the views from their walls are a reward in themselves.

Lenzburg Castle is the largest and most prominent. It stands on a rocky hill above the town of Lenzburg, at roughly 500 metres above sea level, and can be seen from a long way off. The earliest parts go back to the Middle Ages, when it belonged to the counts of Lenzburg. It later passed to the Kyburgs and the Habsburgs, and in the fifteenth century the Bernese took it and ruled the area from it through bailiffs. In the twentieth century it belonged for a time to wealthy American owners, who restored parts of it, and today it is run by Museum Aargau as a historic museum. The exhibits cover the history of the castle and the daily life of its inhabitants, with rooms furnished in several styles, a knights' hall and a collection of arms and armour. The grounds include gardens and a lookout over the Aargau plain, and the castle hosts events and themed activities through the year, with special programmes for children who can dress up and explore.

The Habsburg, near Brugg, has special historical weight. It was built in the eleventh century by the family that later became the imperial dynasty of Austria, and the family's name comes from this castle. It is a more modest building than Lenzburg, partly a ruin and partly restored, but its tower gives long views, and the story behind it, of a local noble family that rose to rule much of Europe, is striking. Schloss Wildegg lies on a hill above the Aare and shows life in an aristocratic household from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century, with a garden that grows old varieties of vegetables and flowers. Schloss Hallwyl, described separately, is the moated castle of the group.

The castles are easily reached from the main towns by train and bus, and each can be visited in a few hours. Combining two in a day is possible if they are close, for example Lenzburg and Hallwyl, or Habsburg and Brugg. Walking paths link some castles with nearby villages, allowing a pleasant outing with views of fields and orchards.

The castles suit families, history readers and photographers, and they offer something for most weather, since the interiors are large enough to spend time indoors. Check the Museum Aargau website for opening hours, events and ticket details, because these change by season, and wear good shoes, as the approaches are often steep. Late afternoon light on the walls is particularly good for photographs.