Grimentz-Zinal Ski Area

The Grimentz-Zinal ski area occupies the upper part of the Val d'Anniviers, a long valley in the Valais that branches south from the Rhône near Sierre. It links two villages that have kept their character: Grimentz, with its old centre of blackened larch chalets and stone granaries, and Zinal, at the head of the valley under the glaciated summits of the Weisshorn, the Zinalrothorn and the Dent Blanche. Together they offer a ski area of more than a hundred kilometres of pistes, with a lift connection between the two sides, so skiers can start in one village and finish in the other.

The terrain is varied. Grimentz has the larger area, with wide pistes above the tree line and a mix of runs that suit beginners, intermediates and experts, and the slopes face mostly south and east, which means plenty of sun. Zinal has a more compact and sometimes steeper area, with access to higher terrain on its glacier side, and it is quieter. The linking lift makes it possible to sample both sides in a day, and the area is not as crowded as the larger resorts of the Valais, so queues are short outside holiday periods. Off-piste skiing and ski touring are popular among experienced skiers, and guides can be hired for these. Lifts include a modern gondola network and several chairlifts, and the resort has made efforts to increase snow reliability with artificial snow on the lower slopes.

The two villages are a pleasure in themselves. Grimentz has a car-free centre of narrow lanes and ancient timber houses, which in summer are decorated with red geraniums on every balcony, giving the village a famous splash of colour. Its old buildings, dated by inscriptions on the beams, include granaries on stone mushroom-shaped pegs to protect against rodents. Zinal is smaller, with a more modern appearance but a dramatic position at the foot of the high peaks. Both offer restaurants serving Valais specialities such as raclette, cheese fondue, dried meat and local wine, and cosy mountain huts on the slopes.

In summer, the same valley is a walking and mountain area. Trails of every length lead to alpine lakes, glaciers and mountain huts, and the valley has a network of old irrigation channels, called bisses, along which paths run. A famous event is the Sierre-Zinal, a mountain race over about thirty kilometres between the valley floor and Zinal, which has been run since the 1970s and is known as the race of the five 4,000-metre peaks because of the views. Cycling, mountaineering and via ferrata routes are also available.

Valley access is by road from Sierre, with a postal bus service, and the drive takes about an hour from the Rhône valley. Lift opening dates, prices and snow conditions vary each year, so check the resort's website before you plan a trip. The area suits families, intermediate skiers and walkers, and it is a good choice for those who prefer a quieter and more traditional resort. Bring layers and sun protection, since the sun is strong at altitude, and book accommodation early for the Christmas and February holiday periods.