Plaine-Morte

Plaine Morte, which means dead plain in French, is a vast, almost flat glacier plateau above Crans-Montana, on the border between the cantons of Valais and Bern. It is the largest plateau glacier in the Alps, and its smooth white surface sits close to 2,700 metres, with the cable car station reaching nearly 3,000. The name comes from the lifeless look of the place: a broad sheet of ice and snow with almost no rock, plant or animal in sight.

Getting up is part of the experience. Lifts climb from Crans-Montana to the Violettes area, and a large cabin continues to the glacier edge, covering a huge height difference in minutes. At the top, a viewing terrace and restaurant look out over a panorama that stretches from the Bernese Alps in the north to the Valais giants in the south. On a clear day the horizon includes the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc, and the contrast between the flat glacier at your feet and the jagged peaks beyond is striking.

In winter, the glacier is the high point of the Crans-Montana ski area and offers reliable snow when lower slopes are thin. Wide runs lead down from the plateau toward the Violettes, and the scale of the terrain means that crowds spread out easily. Skiers and boarders of intermediate level can enjoy it, while the surrounding off-piste terrain demands experience and caution.

In summer the lifts keep running, and the plateau becomes a place for walkers. A marked path crosses the glacier edge, though visitors should keep to the signposted areas, as crevasses and meltwater are real hazards. A lake sometimes forms on the ice during the warm months and has, in some years, drained suddenly through the glacier, which has affected the Bernese side. The glacier is also retreating like most Alpine ice, and scientists monitor it closely.

Bring warm clothes, sunglasses and sun cream whatever the season, because the altitude and reflected light are intense. Combine the visit with Cry d'Er, another viewpoint reached from Crans-Montana, or with a stroll around the lakes lower down in the resort. A day in the high mountains here shows a landscape that is both beautiful and changing.