Gornergrat Bahn (Gornergrat Railway)

The Gornergrat Railway, the Gornergrat Bahn, is the rack railway that climbs from the car-free village of Zermatt to the Gornergrat, a rocky ridge at 3,089 metres facing the Matterhorn. It opened in 1898 and was the first electrically powered rack railway in Switzerland, and it remains the highest open-air cog railway in Europe. The line, a fine piece of Swiss Alpine engineering, runs for roughly nine kilometres and gains about 1,500 metres of height, with a journey that takes a little over half an hour, so it is one of the easiest ways for visitors to reach the high mountains without climbing.

The ride itself is the first reward. Trains leave from a station opposite the main railway station in Zermatt and climb at once through forest and meadow, passing the stations at Riffelalp, Riffelberg and Rotenboden before the final stretch across bare rock and snow. The line crosses bridges and runs through short tunnels, and in many places there are views down the valley and across to the Matterhorn, which grows more impressive as the train climbs. From Zermatt, passengers are advised to sit on the right-hand side going up for the best views of the mountain, though conditions vary. The open scenery changes through the seasons, with green meadows in summer, golden larches in autumn and deep snow in winter.

From the top, the Gornergrat terrace gives one of the great mountain panoramas of the Alps. The Matterhorn stands to the southwest, with its pyramid shape unmistakable, and across the ridge is the Monte Rosa massif, including the Dufourspitze, at 4,634 metres the highest point in Switzerland. Below the terrace the Gorner Glacier flows down in a broad river of ice, joined by tributaries from several peaks, in one of the largest glacier systems in the Alps. Altogether, a ring of dozens of peaks over four thousand metres rises around the viewpoint, and on a clear day the scene is overwhelming. A hotel and observatory stand at the summit, and there is a restaurant for refreshment.

The altitude matters, and visitors should be aware of thin air, strong sun and rapidly changing weather. Dress warmly, bring sun protection and drink water, and take a few minutes to adapt on arrival. The railway runs all year, with timetables adjusted by season, so check departures and prices before you go, and consider booking a combined ticket if you plan to use other lifts. Early trains give the clearest views, since clouds often gather by midday. Many visitors also get off at Rotenboden to walk to the Riffelsee, where, on a calm morning, the Matterhorn is mirrored in the water, and walk down.

The railway suits anyone visiting Zermatt, from families to photographers and hikers. Allow half a day for the trip and the views, or a full day if you combine it with a walk.