Christkindlmarkt Rapperswil

Every year in December, during Advent, the old town of Rapperswil on Lake Zürich hosts a Christmas market, called the Christkindlmarkt, that fills its lanes and squares with wooden stalls, lights and the smell of roasting chestnuts. The market takes advantage of a setting that suits it well. The old town is compact and car-free, the buildings are old and close together, and the castle on its hill, lit up in the evening, looks over the stalls and the dark water of the lake beyond. In winter, with a little cold air and perhaps a dusting of snow, the scene is close to a Christmas card.

Christmas markets in German-speaking Switzerland follow a pattern that is largely shared with Germany and Austria, with local variations. Stalls sell handmade goods such as candles, wooden toys, knitted socks and hats, ceramics, jewellery and decorations for the tree, often made by craftspeople from the region. Others sell food and drink. Visitors can expect hot spiced wine, called Glühwein, as well as punch and hot chocolate, along with roasted chestnuts, cheese dishes, sausages, waffles and sweet treats. Gingerbread and other traditional baking appear in many forms. In the Zürich region, a popular seasonal bread is the Grittibänz, a sweet yeast dough shaped like a little man, which families bake or buy around the feast of Saint Nicholas on 6 December.

Saint Nicholas, called Samichlaus in Swiss German, is a notable figure in the season, usually accompanied by a companion called Schmutzli, and visits to markets and homes by costumed Samichlaus are part of local tradition. Children's activities, music and performances are a feature of the programme, and the market may include carol singers, brass bands, craft workshops and storytelling. The exact schedule changes from year to year, so it is worth checking the dates, times and programme with the local tourist office or the market's website before travelling.

The surroundings add to the experience. After walking through the stalls, you can take a stroll on the lakeside promenade, visit the castle terrace for a view over the lake and the town, or look at the shop windows in the old town. A short walk away is the wooden footbridge across the lake, which is atmospheric in the evening. Rapperswil is easy to reach by train from Zürich in about forty minutes, which makes it a good choice for an evening trip.

The market suits families, couples and groups of friends. It can be crowded on weekends and in the evening, so weekday afternoons are quieter. Dress warmly, wear shoes that can cope with cold or wet cobbles, and bring cash for small purchases, although many stalls accept cards. Prices for food and drinks are in line with other Swiss markets, which means they are not cheap. Plan about two hours for a visit, and combine it with a meal in one of the old town's restaurants.