Chapelle Saint-Théodule, Riex

Riex is a small winegrowing village on the lakeside slope between Cully and Épesses, in the Lavaux region of the canton of Vaud. It lies within the UNESCO World Heritage area of the terraced vineyards, and its houses, clustered along narrow lanes between the vine terraces, look much as they would have a century or more ago. From the village you see the full sweep of the lake below, the French Alps across the water and the stone walls of the terraces rising above and below the houses. In a landscape so strongly shaped by wine growing, a small chapel in the village is a natural focus of local identity, and the Chapelle Saint-Théodule is a modest part of that picture.

Saint Theodulus, in French Théodule, is a figure with deep roots in the western Alps. He is traditionally regarded as the first bishop of Valais, active in the fourth century, and his cult spread through the Valais and neighbouring regions. In legend he is associated with a bell, and he is often shown with a devil carrying it, and he is honoured as a patron of winegrowers in parts of the Alps, which would suit a chapel in a vine-growing village, although traditions vary from place to place. The Theodulpass, a high glacier pass between Zermatt and Italy, also carries his name, as does a church in Sion, so the saint's name is widely seen in the region.

Small chapels of this kind are a feature of the villages of Lavaux. They were built by local communities, often in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries or earlier, as places for prayer and for local gatherings, and in the Reformed canton of Vaud many were converted to other uses or simply left plain. They are typically simple buildings, with a single nave, a small bell tower and a plain interior, which reflects the austerity of the Protestant tradition. Visitors should not expect grand decoration, and the pleasure of such a building lies in its setting and its quiet, as much as in the architecture.

The chapel's exact date and interior are not well recorded, so visitors should treat it as a quiet corner of the village rather than a major monument. It is often closed outside services or special events, so it may be seen only from the outside. A visit is best combined with a walk through the vineyards. The Lavaux footpaths pass through Riex, linking it with Cully, Épesses and the other wine villages, and a stroll of an hour or two takes in terraces, stone stairways and viewpoints over the lake.

Wine tasting is the natural companion to a visit, since many growers in Riex and the neighbouring villages welcome visitors to their cellars, though most require booking. The white Chasselas is the grape of the region, and the village has a handful of restaurants and cellar bars that serve local dishes. The area is reachable by train to Cully, followed by a short walk uphill. Wear comfortable shoes, since the lanes are steep and cobbled, and bring water in summer, when the terraces can be hot.