Chapel Of The Hermitage (Chapel Of St. Ursicinus)

Saint-Ursanne is a tiny walled town in the canton of Jura, tucked into a loop of the Doubs river between steep wooded cliffs, and its whole existence goes back to one man. According to tradition, the Irish monk Ursicinus, a companion of Saint Columbanus, settled here in the seventh century as a hermit, living in a cell in the rock above the river. Followers gathered around him, a monastery grew up, and the town later took its name from the saint, in the French form Ursanne.

The hermitage chapel recalls that beginning. It belongs to the same devotional landscape as the collegiate church in the town centre, a major Romanesque and Gothic building with a carved portal and a cloister, which houses the saint's memory in the middle of the settlement. A visit to the hermitage chapel is a quieter side of the story: a small place of prayer associated with the saint's early life, away from the streets, in a setting of rock and trees where the sound of the river is audible below.

The village itself is among the best preserved in the Swiss Jura. Stone gates, medieval walls, arcaded houses and narrow lanes make up a compact old town that is recognised as a heritage site of national importance. The stone bridge over the Doubs, the Pont Saint-Jean, is a distinctive landmark with a statue of Saint John Nepomuk at its centre, and it gives the classic view of the town reflected in the water. The valley is quiet and green, and the pace of life is slow.

Practical details vary. A chapel of this kind may be open only at set times or by arrangement, so ask at the tourist office in the village or check local information before going. Respect the religious nature of the place: speak quietly and avoid disturbing anyone at prayer.

Saint-Ursanne works well as a half-day visit. Combine the churches and the walls with a stroll along the river, a meal in one of the village restaurants and, if time allows, a walk in the surrounding hills, where marked paths lead through forest and meadow.