Aarau Old Town

Aarau, the capital of the canton of Aargau, is a small town on the Aare, at the foot of the first ridges of the Jura. Its old town is compact and almost entirely pedestrian, with a layout that has hardly changed since the Middle Ages. The town was founded in the thirteenth century by the counts of Kyburg, who chose a rocky outcrop above the river, and the plan still shows the original arrangement of two main parallel streets with houses packed tightly on each side. A walk through the centre takes less than an hour, but there is enough detail to fill a morning.

The most prominent landmark is the Oberturm, the upper tower, a tall medieval tower that once formed part of the town's defences and is considered one of the oldest buildings in Aarau. Its base dates from the thirteenth century, and the upper parts, with their distinctive clock and bell, were added later, giving it a mixed appearance that rises above the surrounding roofs. Near it stands the Schlössli, a small castle with a medieval core that now houses the town museum, and a short walk away are the Rathaus, the town hall, and a series of towers and gates that recall the old fortifications. Along the streets, you will see narrow, tall houses with steep roofs, oriel windows and carved doorways, many of them from the sixteenth to eighteenth centuries.

One local peculiarity is the Stadtbach, small channels of water that once ran in the streets and fed fountains and workshops. They are a reminder of how towns managed water in the past, and in places they are still visible. Another is the wide, painted eaves of the houses, covered in a separate entry, which give Aarau its nickname of town of beautiful gables. Looking up as you walk will reveal their colourful designs.

Aarau also has a place in Swiss political history. In 1798, when French forces helped to create the Helvetic Republic, a centralised state that replaced the old Confederation, Aarau was chosen as its first capital, though the government moved to Lucerne within a few months. The episode is a footnote in the town's history, but it explains why the town hall and other buildings once held national importance. The town is also associated with Einstein, who studied at the cantonal school in Aarau as a teenager and later spoke warmly about his time there.

Around the old town are a number of cafés, small shops and museums, as well as the Aargauer Kunsthaus and the Naturama museum, which looks at nature and the environment. The old town is a gateway for visits to castles and nature in the surrounding region, such as Lenzburg, Hallwyl and the Jura ridges, all of which are within easy reach by train or bus.

Walking the streets is free, and the old town is open at all hours, though many shops close on Sundays. Aarau suits history readers, architecture fans and anyone looking for a peaceful, uncrowded town. Allow one to two hours for the old town, and take extra time if you visit a museum. The railway station is a short walk from the centre, and the town is quick to reach from Zürich and Basel.