A Short History of the Pot
Cheese fondue is Switzerland's best-known dish, but its status as a national symbol is partly the result of marketing. The earliest known recipe for melted cheese with wine comes from a Zurich cookbook of 1699. In the 1930s the Swiss Cheese Union, a cartel that managed cheese production and sales, promoted fondue as a national dish to increase cheese consumption, and the campaign continued for decades. The Union was disbanded in 1999, but the habit stuck.
The name comes from the French fondre, to melt. A fondue is made by melting cheese with white wine in a heavy earthenware pot called a caquelon, usually rubbed with garlic first, thickened with a little starch and often finished with a dash of kirsch. The pot sits over a small burner on the table, and diners dip cubes of bread on long forks.
The Main Styles
- Moitié-moitié ("half-and-half"): equal parts Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois, the most common style in western Switzerland and the default in many restaurants.
- Fondue fribourgeoise: made with Vacherin Fribourgeois alone. It melts at a lower temperature and is often made without wine. It is traditionally eaten with potatoes as well as bread.
- Gruyère-based fondues, sometimes called fondue vaudoise or neuchâteloise, rely mostly on Gruyère and wine.
- Variations add tomatoes, mushrooms, herbs or champagne. Many regional names are more recent inventions than old traditions, so ask what goes into the house fondue.
Fondue chinoise (thin meat cooked in broth) and fondue bourguignonne (meat cooked in oil) are different dishes, often served at Christmas.
Gruyères and Fribourg
The canton of Fribourg is the home of both Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois, so it is the natural place to start. In the medieval hilltop town of Gruyères, restaurants along the main street serve fondue all year. Below the town, La Maison du Gruyère in Pringy is a show dairy where you can watch Gruyère being made from a gallery, and it also has a restaurant. The city of Fribourg has traditional restaurants serving moitié-moitié and fondue fribourgeoise.
Geneva and Lake Geneva
In Geneva, the Café du Soleil in Petit-Saconnex is one of the city's best-known fondue addresses and has been a local institution for many years. Booking is advisable, especially in winter. Across the Lake Geneva region, wine-producing villages such as those in Lavaux serve fondue alongside local Chasselas wines, which are the classic match.
Zurich and German-Speaking Switzerland
Fondue is just as common in German-speaking Switzerland, often under the name Käsefondue. In Zurich's Old Town (Niederdorf), the Swiss Chuchi restaurant at the Hotel Adler is a well-known place for fondue and raclette that is used to welcoming visitors. In winter, many towns and ski resorts also set up seasonal fondue stalls, chalets or pop-up restaurants. Check what is on locally, since these change every year.
Mountain restaurants in the Alps serve fondue at lunch and in the evening, and some offer a fondue dinner followed by a sledge or walk back to the valley by torchlight. These evening outings are usually bookable through local tourist offices or the restaurants themselves, and they are popular, so reserve in advance.
Ordering and Eating
- Fondue is usually priced per person, with a minimum of two people. Bread is included. Potatoes, pickles or extra sides may be charged separately.
- Many Swiss see fondue as a cold-weather dish, eaten from autumn to early spring. Tourist restaurants in Zermatt, Lucerne, Gruyères and the cities serve it year-round.
- Stir as you dip, ideally in a figure-of-eight, to keep the cheese smooth and stop it catching.
- Drink white wine, typically a dry Chasselas such as Fendant from Valais, or black tea. Folk wisdom warns against cold drinks, though there is little science behind it.
- Losing your bread in the pot traditionally earns a forfeit, decided by the table.
- Do not miss la religieuse, the thin toasted crust of cheese that forms at the bottom of the pot near the end. It is usually lifted out and shared.
How to Choose a Restaurant
Good signs include a short menu focused on Swiss dishes, cheese sourced from named local producers, and plenty of Swiss diners. In tourist areas, book ahead for evenings in winter and during holiday periods. If you are travelling with children or anyone who avoids alcohol, ask whether a wine-free version is available. The cheese can also be very rich, so a green salad before the pot is a common Swiss order.
