Zurich West

Zürich West is the part of the city that has changed most in the last thirty years. Until the late twentieth century it was an industrial district on the north-western side of the railway station, home to engineering works, breweries and shipyards, and its streets were lined with factories, warehouses and railway sidings. The company Escher Wyss, which built steamships and turbines here in the nineteenth century and sent them across the world, was one of the largest employers, and the area was known for its noise and smoke. When the factories closed, the buildings stood empty, and artists, musicians and entrepreneurs moved in, drawn by cheap space, and the district gradually turned into one of the city's centres of culture, design and nightlife.

The transformation is visible everywhere in the architecture. Old factory halls have been converted into theatres, galleries, restaurants and offices, and newer buildings stand beside them, often in strong contrast. The most visible new landmark is the Prime Tower, a tall glass building of about 126 metres that was completed in 2011 and was for some years the tallest in Switzerland, and its mirrored surface can be seen from across the city. Beneath the railway line, a long viaduct dating from the late nineteenth century has been turned into a row of shops, restaurants and a market hall known as Im Viadukt, where local food, design goods and fashion are sold under the brick arches. The arches themselves, with their rhythm of stone and light, are a good example of how an old structure can be given a new use.

Culture is concentrated in several former industrial complexes. The Löwenbräu-Areal, a former brewery, now houses contemporary art galleries and museums, including the Kunsthalle Zürich and the Migros Museum of Contemporary Art, as well as commercial galleries, and its tall brick buildings make an impressive setting for exhibitions. The Schiffbau, a former shipbuilding hall, is a theatre and event space of the Schauspielhaus, with a restaurant and a jazz club under one roof, and it has become a favourite for evening outings. Other venues include clubs, cinemas and small theatres, and the district hosts festivals, street parties and open-air events in summer.

For a break from the urban scene, Frau Gerolds Garten, an informal garden bar built from shipping containers and plants, offers a place to eat and drink outdoors in the warmer months, and it has become an institution among locals. The area also has restaurants serving food from around the world, craft beer bars, bakeries and design shops, and the choice reflects the multicultural nature of the neighbourhood. Walking through the district is the best way to see it, and you will find street art, repurposed machinery and small surprises on the way.

Zürich West is reached by tram or train from the main station in a few minutes, and the area is compact. It suits visitors who enjoy contemporary culture, architecture, food and nightlife. Allow half a day for a walk and a gallery visit. Opening hours differ between venues and some are closed on Mondays, so check before you go.