Selden

Selden is a tiny hamlet in the Gasterntal, a wild side valley of the Bernese Oberland that opens from the village of Kandersteg and runs deep into the mountains toward the Lötschen Pass. It is one of the few settlements in the valley and the starting point for some of the finest walking in the region. The Gasterntal is a nature reserve with a strong sense of remoteness, and the hamlet’s handful of old timber houses and mountain inns stand among meadows with towering rock walls on every side.

The approach is part of the experience. From Kandersteg, a narrow road climbs through the Klus, a spectacular gorge where the Kander River has cut a deep channel through the limestone. The road is single-track in places, with sharp turns and few places to pass, and to protect the valley the traffic is controlled. Cars are limited, and many visitors use a shuttle bus or postal service, often requiring a reservation, so check the current arrangements before you go. The valley’s private roads are managed by the local farming community, the Bäuert Gasterntal, which maintains them and sets the rules, and visitors are expected to respect them.

From Selden, a popular one-way hike leads back down toward Kandersteg, a distance of around ten kilometres. The route follows the Kander River through the valley, crosses wooden bridges, passes mountain huts and alpine pastures and then plunges into the gorge, where the path hugs the rock above the river. Cliffs rise to the sides, and waterfalls pour from hanging valleys in the walls. The walk is well marked and suitable for walkers with moderate fitness, and it takes around three hours, with options to shorten it by using the shuttle for part of the way. Other trails lead deeper into the valley or up to high passes and alpine lakes, for experienced mountain walkers.

The Gasterntal is known for its glacial scenery and unspoilt character. The Kander River is milky with glacial silt, and the broad gravel plains in the valley floor are a habitat for plants and birds. In autumn the larch trees on the slopes turn gold. The weather can change quickly in the mountains, so carry a rain jacket, and be aware that rockfall and avalanches can close paths in spring.

The area suits hikers, photographers and travellers who want to see a real alpine valley without the infrastructure of the big resorts. Pick a clear day and start early, and combine the hike with a visit to Kandersteg’s other attractions.