Klaus Waterfall

The Gasterntal is a high valley above Kandersteg, in the Bernese Oberland, and it is a place defined by water. The Kander river runs through it, fed by the meltwater of glaciers on the surrounding peaks, and in the surrounding cliffs streams fall from ledges and hanging valleys in a number of waterfalls, some of them visible from the path and the road. The valley's name, Gastern, is of obscure origin, and the landscape has a wild quality that comes from the combination of towering rock walls, the broad, gravel-strewn valley floor and the ever-present sound of rushing water. A waterfall in a valley like this is not a single scenic point but part of a living system, in which the volume of water depends on the season, the weather and the temperature.

Waterfalls in the Alps follow a calendar. In spring, as the snow melts, streams swell and the falls are at their most powerful, often loud and wreathed in spray. In summer, glacier melt keeps flows high, with the greatest volumes in the afternoons of hot days, and the water takes on the milky, grey-blue colour of glacial meltwater, carrying fine rock flour. After heavy rain, new falls appear on cliffs that are dry at other times, and in autumn and winter flows decline, and some freeze into columns of ice. For visitors, this means that the same fall can look quite different from one visit to the next, and it is worth checking recent conditions.

Getting into the valley is part of the adventure. The route from Kandersteg passes through the Klus, a narrow gorge, by a path and a private road, where the Kander has cut a deep channel through the rock. A permit is needed for vehicles on the road, and a shuttle bus may run in the summer season, though it may require booking and has limited capacity. Many people choose to walk, either the whole way from Kandersteg, which takes several hours, or from points along the road. The path is mostly well maintained, but it is rough in places and includes steps, bridges and exposed sections near the gorge, so sturdy boots and a reasonable level of fitness are needed.

Along the way, you will see the hamlets of the valley, such as Selden and Heimritz, with their small mountain inns, and farmland where cattle graze in summer. At the head of the valley, the glaciers of the Kander and the high passes rise above. The Lötschenpass, an old crossing into the Valais, and routes to mountain huts begin here, so the valley is a starting point for longer expeditions. In late spring and early summer the meadows are full of flowers, and in autumn the larches turn gold.

Take care near waterfalls and gorges. Rocks are wet and slippery, rockfall can occur, and flows can rise suddenly, so keep to paths, avoid climbing on wet rocks, and keep children close. The area is quiet and the weather changes quickly, so bring layers and rain protection, and check forecasts and shuttle schedules before you go. The valley suits walkers, photographers and nature lovers, and a visit takes most of a day.