Private Roads (Bäuert Gasterntal)

The Gasterntal is a high valley above Kandersteg in the Bernese Oberland, and it is one of the wildest and most beautiful side valleys in the Alps. It is a deep, glacial trough, flat on the floor and walled in by cliffs, with the river Kander running through meadows and gravel beds, and at the head the glaciers of the Blüemlisalp and Balmhorn massifs shine in the distance. It is a landscape with a feeling of remoteness, even though it is only a short distance from a busy tourist village, and a few farmsteads and huts are the only buildings. The valley is used for summer pasture, and a few hamlets, among them Selden and Heimritz, have guesthouses and simple restaurants.

Access to the valley is through a narrow gorge called the Chluse, or Klus, cut by the Kander through the limestone, and for much of history the only way in was a steep footpath. A road was built through the gorge in the twentieth century, and it is a single-track gravel road with passing places, cut into the rock face in places, with overhanging cliffs and views down to the river. The road belongs to a local community of farmers, called a Bäuert, who have managed the alpine pastures and paths for centuries, and they control access to the road to protect the valley. Because it is private, a permit or fee is required for vehicles, and it can be bought at machines or from the tourist office in Kandersteg. Restrictions on traffic apply, and timings and rules change, so check with the tourist office or the road's official website before you set out.

For those without a permit, the valley can also be visited on foot, and in many ways walking is the best way to see it. A path follows the road and the river from Kandersteg, passing through the gorge by footbridges and tunnels, and emerging into the flat valley floor. The walk takes two to three hours one way, and the scenery is excellent, with waterfalls dropping from the cliffs, such as the Klaus waterfall, and the sound of the river always nearby. Some visitors use a shuttle bus where available, and cyclists and mountain bikers also use the road, subject to the rules.

The valley is the start of hiking routes to the high mountain passes and huts. The Lötschenpass, an old crossing into the Valais, leads from the head of the valley, and a number of mountain huts offer meals and beds. In spring the valley has abundant wildflowers, and in autumn the larches turn gold. Wildlife is plentiful, with chamois, marmots, golden eagles and ibex. Winter closes the road and the valley, and avalanches make the area dangerous, so it is normally closed from late autumn to spring.

The valley suits walkers, cyclists, photographers and anyone who values wild country. Allow a full day for a visit. Bring sturdy shoes, layers and food, and respect the farmland, closing gates and keeping dogs on leads. Check road and weather conditions before you go.