Plainpalais Market

Plainpalais is a large open space on the western edge of Geneva's centre, in a district just beyond the old town, and it is known as the place where several of the city's markets are held. The space, called the Plaine de Plainpalais, is a broad, almost diamond-shaped esplanade covered with gravel, bordered by trees and surrounded by university buildings, theatres, cafés and apartment blocks. Because it is level and open, it has been used for centuries for public events, fairs and, in the past, military drills, and today it still works like a town square for the city. On most days it is a quiet, wide space where people cross, play boules, walk dogs and sit, and a skate park at one end is a magnet for young people.

On market days the plain changes. The best-known event is the flea market, a large gathering of stallholders selling second-hand goods, books, records, clothes, tools, jewellery, antiques and curiosities, laid out on the gravel in rows. It takes place on certain days each week, and it is popular with locals who come to browse and bargain, as well as with visitors looking for souvenirs. Prices are negotiable, and early arrival increases the chance of finding the best items, while the later hours are better for bargains as sellers prepare to pack up. A separate market, for fresh produce, is held on other days, with farmers and producers selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, honey, flowers and bread. Food stalls offer quick snacks, which are a good way to sample the multicultural food scene of the city. Since market days and hours can change, check the city's website for the current timetable before you go.

The atmosphere is social and informal. Geneva is one of the most international cities in the world, hosting the United Nations and many other organisations, and its population includes people from all over the globe, which shows in the mix of goods, languages and food at the market. Conversations between buyers and sellers happen in French, English and many other languages, and the stalls show the range of the city's communities. The plain is also a place where students from the nearby university meet, since the university's buildings stand on its edge.

The area has other things to see. Around the plain are the Uni Mail university building, theatres, bookshops and bars, and the district of Plainpalais has been a centre of student and artistic life. A short walk away is the Museum of Art and History or the old town, and the tram connects the plain to the station and the lake. The Arve river, which runs along the western edge of the district, has riverside paths for walking.

The market is easy to reach by tram, with a stop at Plainpalais, and it suits everyone. It is free to enter, and a visit takes one to two hours. Bring cash for small purchases and a bag, and watch your belongings in the crowd. Wear comfortable shoes for the gravel, and note that rain turns parts of the ground muddy.