Niederdorf (Zürich)

Niederdorf, nicknamed the Dörfli, is the part of Zürich's old town on the right bank of the Limmat, stretching between the river and the slopes toward the university and running roughly from Central down to Bellevue. The main thoroughfare is Niederdorfstrasse, and it runs parallel to Limmatquai, the riverfront road lined with guild houses, in a district of narrow, mostly traffic-free lanes. Buildings on these streets range from medieval to nineteenth century, with painted façades, oriel windows, passages and small squares breaking up the rows of houses.

By day the area is relaxed and walkable. Bookshops, craft studios, small boutiques and cafés occupy the ground floors, and the street is a convenient link between the station area and the lake. The towers of Grossmünster rise above the rooftops and give a landmark for finding your way, and the confectionery Schober, in a historic building with a richly decorated interior, is one of the long-standing places to stop for hot chocolate and pastries. Restaurants serve Swiss specialities such as Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, veal in cream sauce, as well as dishes from around the world, and the quality ranges from simple to refined.

The Dörfli also has a notable cultural history. Spiegelgasse, a lane branching off the main street, was the address of the Cabaret Voltaire, where the Dada movement began in 1916 among a circle of artists and writers who had fled the war elsewhere in Europe. The same street is associated with Lenin, who lived there for a time in 1916 before returning to Russia. A short walk away are Grossmünster, Lindenhof and the Kunsthaus Zürich, so the district is easy to combine with sightseeing.

After dark the character changes. Bars, clubs and live-music venues fill the narrow lanes, and the area has long been the city's main nightlife quarter, with a busy and sometimes boisterous crowd at weekends. It is therefore a good place to go for a drink, though quieter visitors may prefer to see it earlier in the evening or by day.

The Dörfli also hosts events. Sechseläuten, the spring festival in which the guilds parade through the city and a snowman figure called the Böögg is burned on a pyre, passes close to the district, and the neighbourhood holds its own festival, the Dörflifäscht, at intervals in late summer. Check the dates before you visit if you want to see either.

Wandering is free, and shops and cafés keep their own hours. The district suits couples, food lovers, history enthusiasts and nightlife seekers. Allow an hour for a leisurely stroll and longer if you eat or stop for a drink, and keep an eye on your belongings in busy streets at night.