Lindenhof (Zürich)

The Lindenhof is a small hill on the left bank of the Limmat in Zürich's old town, and it is the oldest known site of settlement in the city. Archaeologists have found traces of Celtic and Roman occupation here, and in the Roman period a fort stood on the hill to control the river crossing, within a settlement called Turicum, the origin of the name Zürich. In the early Middle Ages the hill was the site of a Carolingian royal palace associated with Louis the German, the grandson of Charlemagne, who founded the Fraumünster abbey just below, and in later centuries the area was a place for assemblies and ceremonies. The palace and later fortifications were removed, and the hill became a public space, which is how it remains today.

The Lindenhof is not a large park but a paved terrace shaded by rows of linden trees, from which it takes its name. A low wall around the edge gives a wide view over the Limmat, the old town on the opposite bank with the towers of the Grossmünster, the University and the roofs of the Niederdorf, and across the water to the lake on clear days. It is a good place to orient yourself in the city, since you see the main landmarks in one glance, and it is one of the best-known viewpoints in the centre.

The terrace is used by local people every day. Groups of older men play chess on large boards with big pieces, a tradition that has become a fixture of the place, and boules, called pétanque, is played on the gravel in the warmer months. Office workers eat lunch on the benches, students sit under the trees and families rest from sightseeing. A fountain on the hill, the Hedwig fountain, is said to recall a medieval legend in which the women of Zürich took up arms to defend the city, and it adds a historical touch. The atmosphere is calm and unhurried, and it is a good place to stay when the streets below are crowded.

The hill sits between the shopping streets near Bahnhofstrasse and the lanes of the old town, so it is easy to include in a walk. The Fraumünster and its Chagall windows are a short way down the slope, and the Münsterbrücke leads across the river to the Grossmünster and the Niederdorf. From Bahnhofstrasse, a short climb up narrow, stepped alleys brings you to the top, and the route itself, with its old houses and small squares, is attractive.

The Lindenhof is free and open at all hours. It suits walkers, photographers, couples and anyone who needs a quiet break. A stop takes fifteen to thirty minutes, and longer if you sit and watch the games. Sunset and early morning are excellent for light and for avoiding crowds, and in summer the shade of the lindens is welcome. Because the terrace is paved and exposed, it can be hot at midday and windy in winter.