Hiking Paths

Les Pléiades is a mountain ridge above Vevey, on the Vaud side of Lake Geneva, at about 1,360 metres, and it is best known for a spring spectacle: fields of wild narcissi that cover the slopes in late May and early June. The flowers are a type of narcissus with white petals and a yellow and red centre, and they bloom in such numbers that the meadows look as if they had been dusted with snow. The region has made a tradition of the event, and for a short season the mountains above Montreux and Vevey draw walkers, photographers and families who come to see the flowers. The timing depends on the weather, and a cold spring may delay the peak by a week or two, so it is best to check local reports on the state of the bloom before you travel.

The mountain is reached by a rack railway from Vevey, which climbs through the vineyards and villages of the hillside, passing through Blonay, and ends near the summit station. The ride takes about half an hour, with views of the lake and the Alps of Savoy opening behind, and it is part of the pleasure of the trip. The line belongs to a network of small mountain railways around Montreux, some of which are run by volunteer groups that maintain historic trains. At the top, a restaurant and a few other buildings stand on the ridge, and the view takes in the whole of Lake Geneva, from Lausanne to the Rhône delta, with the Dents du Midi and, on a clear day, Mont Blanc.

Walking trails start close to the upper station. A well-signposted loop of about five and a half kilometres passes through the main narcissus meadows and along the ridge, with a modest climb of around two hundred metres, so it is suitable for families, older walkers and casual hikers. The path is mostly on grassy tracks and gravel, with a few short steeper sections, and benches are placed at the best viewpoints. In flower season, the path is lined with white blooms, and the scent is sweet. Other routes lead farther along the ridge, down toward Blonay and Châtel-Saint-Denis, or up to other summits, and a day can be made of a longer traverse. In summer, the slopes are pasture for cattle, and in autumn the beeches turn gold.

The mountain has a second claim to attention. Les Pléiades is a good site for stargazing, since the air is clear and it is above the lights of the lake shore, and a special evening train, called the Star Train, carries visitors up for astronomy evenings, with telescopes, guides and sometimes a meal. The programme runs on selected dates, usually in summer and autumn, and it requires booking, so look at the operator's schedule.

Weather on the ridge can change quickly, and cloud or rain can spoil the view, so bring a waterproof, layers and sturdy shoes. If you prefer to avoid crowds in flower season, go on a weekday or early in the morning. The place suits families, walkers, photographers and anyone who enjoys flowers. Allow two to three hours for the loop and time for a meal. Dogs must be kept on a lead, and visitors should stay on the paths and not pick the narcissi, to protect them.