Fee Glacier

The Fee glacier is the ice mass above the village of Saas-Fee, in the Valais, and it has shaped the place in every sense. The village takes its name from the glacier, and it lies in a hanging valley at about 1,800 metres, surrounded by a ring of high peaks that is often said to include thirteen summits over 4,000 metres, among them the Dom, the Täschhorn, the Alphubel and the Allalinhorn. The glacier descends from the flank of these mountains, and its snout was once close enough to the village to be a visible presence from the streets. It is also an example of the great retreat of Alpine ice. Over the last century and a half, the glacier has shrunk and thinned, and the ice that once filled the upper valley has drawn back toward the high slopes, leaving moraines, bare rock and meltwater streams below.

The glacier can be seen from several places. Walking paths from the village climb through larch forest and meadow to viewpoints with a close look at the ice, the crevasses and the debris at its edges, and signs along some routes explain the glacier's history and the changes of recent decades. A route known as a glacier trail leads past markers that show where the ice reached in different years, and these give a vivid sense of the speed of retreat. The meltwater collects in a stream that runs down toward the village, and the sound of rushing water is a feature of the valley. From the higher areas, accessed by lifts, the view over the crevassed surface is more dramatic.

For those who want to get nearer to the ice, an underground funicular, the Metro Alpin, runs from the village up through the mountain to a station at about 3,500 metres, on the high plateau of the Mittelallalin, which is one of the highest railway stations in Europe. At the top, an ice pavilion, a cave cut into the glacier, allows visitors to walk inside the ice, see its blue walls and learn about glaciers and climate, and a revolving restaurant offers views over the surrounding peaks. Summer skiing is possible on the high slopes, and the area is used by ski teams for training. Because this area is high and cold, warm clothing is essential even in summer.

Walking on the glacier itself is dangerous for anyone without training and equipment. The ice is crevassed, with cracks that can be hidden under snow, and the surface changes from season to season, so independent walkers should stay on marked paths and never step onto the ice without a guide. Qualified mountain guides offer glacier walks and introductory courses, with ropes, crampons and instruction, and these are the safest way to experience the ice. The best season for visiting is summer, from July to September, when paths are free of snow, though weather can change quickly and cloud may hide the peaks, so check forecasts.

The glacier suits walkers, families and anyone interested in climate and mountains. Saas-Fee is a car-free village, with parking at the entrance and electric taxis, and a visit can include the village's alleys, chapels and restaurants. Allow a half day for a walk to a viewpoint and a full day if you ride the funicular to the high station.