Bains Des Pâquis

On the right bank of Lake Geneva, a long pier of concrete and wood runs out from the Pâquis district into the water, and for the people of Geneva it is the most democratic spot in the city. The Bains des Pâquis dates from the early 1930s, and it has the look of its era: a long, low bathing building, diving boards, a small lighthouse at the end of the jetty and open decks where people lie on the planks in summer. It is public in the truest sense, and the crowd on a hot afternoon includes office workers on their lunch hour, students, families, retirees and tourists.

Swimming is the main activity in summer. The water is clean and cold, and the diving boards are busy, while the long jetty gives views across the lake to the Jet d'eau and the old town skyline. The simple snack bar serves cold drinks and light meals, and the atmosphere is relaxed and informal. A sauna and a hammam, in separate sections with their own opening times, are part of the facilities, and they make the baths a place to visit in cooler weather as well.

Winter is the other great season. When the swimmers leave, the baths do not close. Instead, hardy regulars still plunge into the lake, the sauna fills up, and the café becomes known for its cheese fondue, a tradition that draws people from across the city. Sitting on a cold evening with a pot of fondue and the lights of Geneva across the water is one of the most characteristic experiences of the city.

The baths also host cultural events, from concerts to markets, and the association that runs the site cultivates an alternative, neighbourly spirit that is quite different from the formal image of Geneva as a city of banks and international organisations. Neighbouring Pâquis is a lively, diverse quarter, with its own market and many restaurants.

Getting there is easy. The baths are a short walk from Cornavin station, and the yellow Mouettes shuttle boats stop nearby, which adds a pleasant crossing of the lake. Prices and opening times vary with the season, so check the current programme. Bring a towel, swimming gear and a sense of humour, and plan to stay longer than you intended.