Church of Santa Maria del Sasso

The Church of Santa Maria del Sasso stands on a rocky spur above the lakeside village of Morcote, at the southern end of Lake Lugano, and it is the landmark of one of the most beautiful villages in Switzerland. The church can be seen from the water as a white building above the roofs, with a slender bell tower rising from the trees, and it dominates the village. Its name means Saint Mary of the Rock, and it recalls the steep outcrop on which it was built.

A church has stood on this spot since the Middle Ages, and the building seen today was largely rebuilt in the late 15th century, in the Renaissance period, when Lombard builders were active across the Ticino region. The long Lombard influence in southern Switzerland, which was part of the Duchy of Milan before the Swiss took control in the early 16th century, shows in the style of the architecture and in the decoration. The structure has a single nave with a plain exterior and a richly decorated interior. The tower is tall and sits at the side, with a pointed roof that is easy to recognise from the lake.

Inside, the walls and vaults are covered with frescoes painted in the 15th and 16th centuries by artists working in the Lombard tradition. They show saints, scenes from the Bible and the life of the Virgin Mary, in strong colours and in the formal style of the period, and some of them are very well preserved. A carved wooden organ and altars from later periods add to the interior, and the atmosphere is quiet and devotional. It is a small church, but the painted decoration repays a slow look, and many visitors are surprised by the richness of the interior after the plain facade.

The approach is part of the experience. A long stairway leads up from the lakefront through arcaded lanes and past the old houses of Morcote, lined with cypress trees, and the climb takes about fifteen minutes at a steady pace. The steps are steep and numerous, so wear good shoes and take your time. At the top, the terrace in front of the church gives a magnificent view over the lake, the red roofs of the village and the mountains on the far side, one of the most photographed views in Ticino. The church is a working place of worship, so dress and behave respectfully, and note that opening arrangements for the interior can vary.

Just below the church lies Parc Scherrer, a botanical garden founded in the 20th century by a textile merchant from St. Gallen, with exotic trees, statues and pavilions in a landscaped setting on the shore. The two combine into a half day in Morcote, and lake boats from Lugano make the arrival particularly pleasant.

The church suits art and architecture lovers, photographers and anyone who enjoys a climb to a view. Entry is generally free, and a modest donation is welcome.