Outdoor Arcades Of The Old Town

Bern's covered arcades, the Lauben, are the feature that most visitors remember of the old town, and they are among the most extensive in Europe. They line both sides of the three main streets, Marktgasse, Kramgasse and Gerechtigkeitsgasse, and stretch for around six kilometres in total, forming a continuous covered promenade that runs from the area of the railway station down to the Nydegg bridge. It is possible to walk for long distances through the old town and stay dry, whatever the weather, which suits a city that has frequent rain and a good deal of snow.

The arcades are part of the structure of the houses themselves. In Bern the upper floors of the buildings project over the pavement and rest on stone pillars, so that the arcade is the ground-floor space between the pillars and the shop fronts. The architecture dates mainly from the period after the great fire of 1405, which destroyed much of the city, and from the following centuries, when stone replaced timber in the rebuilding. The pale grey-green sandstone used for the pillars and arches is quarried locally, and gives the old town its colour and the arcades their soft, even light. The arches vary in height and width from house to house, and some have carved capitals and keystones, so the rhythm of the streets is varied despite the common plan.

The arcades have always been commercial spaces. Shops, workshops and market stalls were set up under them, and today they hold a lively mix of boutiques, bookshops, galleries, cafés and bars. A special feature is the cellars. Under many of the arcades, steps lead down to vaulted cellar rooms that have been converted into shops, bars and restaurants, and a sign on the pavement with an arrow or a hanging board advertises them. Looking down these steps gives a glimpse of the medieval foundations, and exploring them is part of the pleasure of the old town. On market days, stalls extend into the street in front of the arcades, and in the run-up to Christmas the whole route is decorated with lights.

Walking the arcades is free, and they are open at all hours, though shops follow their own opening times and many close on Sundays. The surface is uneven in places, with old paving and steps, so comfortable shoes are important. The arcades are mostly flat but some sections slope, and ramps are not available everywhere, so people with mobility problems may prefer to use the street. Along the way you pass the Zytglogge clock tower, the fountains in the middle of the streets and views toward the Minster, so the walk is a good way to see many of the old town's landmarks.

The arcades suit all visitors, and shoppers, photographers and walkers in particular. A walk from the station to the Nydegg bridge takes about thirty minutes without stopping, but a slower pace, with cellar visits and a coffee, takes a morning. Early morning is the best time for photographs, when the light is soft and the arcades are quiet.