Lac De Derborence

The Lac de Derborence is a small, calm lake in a hidden valley of the Valais, in Switzerland, and it owes its existence to a catastrophe. In the 18th century, great masses of rock fell from the cliffs of the Diablerets massif above the valley, first in 1714 and again in 1749, burying huts and pastures, killing a number of people and blocking the stream that ran through the valley floor, a tributary of the Rhône River. Behind the barrier of debris the water gathered into a lake, which has remained ever since, at an altitude of about 1,450 metres. The scale of the rockfall is still clear in the landscape: the valley floor is a chaos of huge boulders, with the lake at its edge, and the cliffs above show the scar where the rock broke away.

The lake is the centre of the Derborence Nature Reserve, so the setting is wild and protected. Forest has grown over the boulders since the rockfalls, with spruce and fir rooted in the gaps between rocks, and no logging or farming has disturbed it. The water is clear and varies in colour from green to deep blue, depending on the light and the depth, and on still days it reflects the surrounding cliffs and forest in a mirror image. The lake level changes through the year, depending on snowmelt and rain, and it can be quite low in late summer. Around it, damp meadows and old forest shelter a rich variety of plants, insects and birds, and chamois, deer and marmots are seen on the slopes above.

A path with sections of wooden walkway leads around the lake and into the forest, making it possible to see the landscape without damaging the wet ground. The walk around the lake takes an hour or so at a gentle pace and is suitable for families, and other paths lead higher into the valley and to alpine pastures. In the evening, the light on the cliffs and the quiet of the valley give the place a strong atmosphere. The author Charles Ferdinand Ramuz set his novel Derborence, published in 1934, in the aftermath of the 1714 rockfall, and the book keeps the story of the disaster alive in Swiss literature.

The valley is reached by a narrow road from Conthey in the Rhone valley that climbs through tunnels and is only one lane wide in places, so drive carefully and be ready to reverse or wait at passing places. The road is generally open from late spring to autumn. A simple inn near the lake serves food and drink in the season, and picnic spots are scattered along the shore. Weather in the high valley can change quickly, so bring a rain jacket and sturdy shoes.

The lake suits walkers, photographers, nature lovers and readers of Ramuz. It is best visited in summer or early autumn, on a calm day when the reflections are clearest.