Kleine Scheidegg

Kleine Scheidegg is a high pass at about 2,060 metres in the Bernese Oberland, set in a saddle of green pasture directly below the north face of the Eiger. The name means little watershed, since the pass separates the valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, whose streams, the Black and the White Lütschine, join lower down. It is a place where great mountains seem close enough to touch, with the Eiger, the Mönch and the Jungfrau forming a wall of rock and ice above the meadows, and it is one of the most famous mountain viewpoints in Switzerland.

The pass is also a railway junction. The Wengernalp Railway, a rack line opened in 1893, climbs to Kleine Scheidegg from both Lauterbrunnen, via Wengen, and Grindelwald, and at the pass it meets the Jungfrau Railway, which continues through the Eiger and Mönch to the Jungfraujoch. The station is therefore the meeting point for all visitors heading to the Top of Europe, and trains arrive and depart at short intervals throughout the day. The grand old hotels beside the station, among them the Bellevue des Alpes, which dates from the 19th century, give the place the air of a Victorian mountain resort, and the terraces are among the best places in the region to sit with a coffee and watch climbers on the Eiger through telescopes.

Many walks start at the pass. The Eiger Trail runs from the Eigergletscher station, a stop on the Jungfrau Railway, down along the foot of the north face to Alpiglen, a demanding but rewarding walk with a close view of the cliffs and the glacier. Easier paths lead across the pastures toward Männlichen and Wengen or Grindelwald, and the walk down to Wengen is a classic. On the pass itself, a short stroll gives wide views of the surrounding peaks. In winter, the pass is part of a ski area, and every January the Lauberhorn ski race, one of the most famous downhill races in the world, begins above the pass and finishes near Wengen.

The weather at 2,000 metres changes quickly, and the north face of the Eiger can disappear in cloud within minutes, so bring layers and check the forecast. The trains are busy in summer, and during peak hours the platforms can be crowded, so plan your timing and consider travelling early. Restaurants at the pass offer a range of food, from simple snacks to full meals, and the hotels provide accommodation for those who want to stay in the mountains.

Kleine Scheidegg suits walkers, railway enthusiasts, photographers and anyone heading for the Jungfraujoch. Allow at least an hour for the views, and more if you take one of the walks.