Hotel Rigi Kaltbad

Rigi Kaltbad is a small, car-free resort on a sunny terrace at about 1,450 metres on the Rigi, the mountain that rises between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and Lake Lauerz in central Switzerland. It is reached by the Vitznau–Rigi railway, which opened in 1871 and is the oldest mountain railway in Europe, or by a cable car from Weggis, and the arrival by train from the lakeside is part of the pleasure. The village itself has hotels, restaurants and a few shops, set along a level promenade with a view across Lake Lucerne to the peaks of the Bernese and Central Swiss Alps, and a small chapel and viewing terrace stand at the edge of the terrace.

The name Kaltbad, meaning cold bath, refers to a spring. Since the 16th century a cold spring in the area was associated with healing, and pilgrims and patients came to drink or bathe in the water, which was believed to help with ailments. In the 19th century the Rigi became one of the most fashionable mountain resorts in Europe, visited by writers, artists and royalty who came for the view and the air, and Kaltbad was one of its chief centres. The mineral spring tradition has been revived in modern form in the spa that stands at the centre of the resort, a large building by the Swiss architect Mario Botta, which opened in the 2010s. It is the centre of the resort’s modern life. Its bathing halls are built around pools filled with mineral-rich water at a pleasant temperature, and the architecture, with its geometric forms and use of stone and light, is a good example of Botta’s style in the mountains.

The hotel in Rigi Kaltbad gives guests direct access to the spa and the views. Rooms look out over the lake or the mountains, and families and groups are catered for, as are seminar guests. The car-free setting means that the village is peaceful, and walking is the natural way to get around, along flat promenades and mountain paths. In summer, trails lead from the village to the Rigi Kulm, the summit, and to other viewpoints, and in winter, there are winter walking paths, sledging and some ski runs. Evenings are quiet, with starry skies on clear nights and the lights of the lakeside villages far below.

Check the current offer, opening times and facilities of the hotel and the spa before you travel, as hotel details and spa rules change, and book ahead in season. The area is reached by train from Arth-Goldau or by boat and railway from Lucerne, and the journey itself is a pleasure.

The resort suits couples, families, walkers and those looking for relaxation. It makes a good base for exploring the Rigi, with its panoramas and its historic railways.