Greifensee Lake

Greifensee is a lake of the Zurich Oberland, lying a few kilometres east of the city of Zurich, between the towns of Uster and Maur. It is a modest lake, about nine square kilometres in area and a little over five kilometres long, with a shape that some people compare to a whale, and it sits in a shallow basin left by the glaciers of the last ice age. To the west, the wooded ridge of the Pfannenstiel separates it from Lake Zurich. Despite its closeness to a major city, the lake has stayed unusually natural, with reed beds along much of the shore, wet woodland and protected zones that make it one of the most important areas for water birds in the canton.

The shoreline is the main attraction. A path follows the lake for much of its perimeter, passing through reeds, meadows, small woods and villages, and it is a favourite of walkers, runners and cyclists, who can complete a full circuit in a day. The path is mostly flat, so it is easy for families, and there are viewpoints and bird-watching spots along the way. Several nature reserve areas are closed to visitors to protect nesting birds, so keep to the marked routes and observe the signs. In spring and autumn, large numbers of migrating birds stop at the lake, and in winter, waterfowl gather in the open water. Dragonflies, orchids and other wetland plants add to the interest in summer.

A boat service links villages on the lake, and a ride across the water is a pleasant way to see the shore from a different perspective. The boats call at piers near Maur and Uster and at other points, and the service can be combined with a walk along part of the shore. In summer the lake has public bathing areas where people swim, sunbathe and picnic, and kiosks and restaurants along the shore provide food and drink. The water is generally clean enough for swimming, though conditions vary and algae can occur in warm weather.

The lake also has a history. In 1444, during the Old Zurich War, the castle of Greifensee was besieged and its defenders were executed after surrender, an event known as the Greifensee murder that is remembered in Swiss history. The castle, a medieval building at the lake’s southern end, is covered in a separate entry. The writer Gottfried Keller later set a novella, Der Landvogt von Greifensee, in the area, which links the lake to Swiss literature.

Greifensee suits walkers, cyclists, birdwatchers and families who want a quiet outing within reach of Zurich. The suburban train reaches Uster and Maur in under half an hour. Go in spring or autumn for the best birdwatching.