Freibad Marzili (Bern)

Freibad Marzili is the open-air pool beside the Aare in Bern, set on the river bank at the foot of the cliff beneath the Federal Palace, the Bundeshaus. It is a place where a government building, a funicular and a bathing park all sit within a few steps of one another. The Marzili district itself was once a working-class quarter of the old city, and its riverside lawns became a bathing place long before the modern pool, so swimming here has a long local tradition. The site is reached from the upper town by the Marzilibahn, one of the shortest funiculars in Europe, or on foot along the riverside path.

Today the complex has several pools, which include a long lap pool, a diving pool with platforms, a pool for non-swimmers and a shallow pool for small children. Alongside the pools there are separate areas for women and for men, called Paradiesli and Männerbad, which follow a traditional pattern in Swiss bathing culture and allow nude sunbathing. Large lawns slope toward the water and fill with people on warm days, and cafés and kiosks provide food and drinks. A playground, a volleyball area and shaded corners cater to families and groups.

The most distinctive feature is the Aare itself. The river runs right beside the pool, and one of Bern's best-loved summer rituals is to walk upstream, enter the water and float down with the current back toward the Marzili. The river is cold, since it is fed by Alpine meltwater, and the current is strong, so only confident swimmers should try it, and only after checking water levels and local advice. There are steps and handrails at the exit points near the pool, but missing them means being carried further downstream. Non-swimmers and children are better off staying in the pools, and visitors who prefer to stay dry can simply sit on the bank and watch.

Marzili is also known for its price. Entry to the grounds is free of charge, as in a few other Bernese bathing places, and you pay only for extras such as lockers or cabins. This makes it a very democratic place, where students, families, officials from the nearby parliament and visitors share the lawns. The pool is a seasonal facility, open in the warmer months, and early mornings and late afternoons are the quietest times. Weekends in hot weather can be very crowded.

The Bern old town and its landmarks are within a short walk. The BärenPark, the Rosengarten and the Matte neighbourhood lie along the river, and the Zytglogge clock tower and the Bern Minster are a short climb away. A visit to the pool fits well into an afternoon of sightseeing. Marzili suits swimmers, families, sunbathers and anyone who wants to see how Bernese people spend a summer day. Bring a towel, sun protection and a lock for your belongings, and check the official site for opening dates and conditions.